LOGIN | REGISTER

Results 1 to 5 of 5
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Long Beach Township
    Posts
    232

    Understanding the Swell

    Hey guys, I've been on a surfboard for about a year now (body-boarding for 5), and I just wanted to get some more knowledge of what I'm surfing.

    Can anyone describe what winds (direction, speed, etc) form what types of waves? Also, how does location play a role in the types of waves/breaks are down the shore? (LBI, NJ specifically).

    I feel like it's necessary to get a better grasp of how waves form, and I think it's that time for me lol

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    in the grace of the most holy FSM
    Posts
    3,455
    honestly, your best bet is to find a copy of "waves & beaches" by willard bascom. it's a great book, very enlightening as to the creation, life, & death of the waves we ride & their effects on the sands upon which we live.
    i re-read it at least once a year to refresh my memory.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Long Beach Township
    Posts
    232
    Quote Originally Posted by njsurfer42 View Post
    honestly, your best bet is to find a copy of "waves & beaches" by willard bascom. it's a great book, very enlightening as to the creation, life, & death of the waves we ride & their effects on the sands upon which we live.
    i re-read it at least once a year to refresh my memory.
    The book is pretty expensive as I've seen on Amazon, over $30-40 used

  4. #4
    N.J.,

    The end product for the most part is Wind Direction,Wave Height and the Bottom Contour.
    Which will change because of the Wind Direction,Wave Hight and Bottom Contour from the day before.
    Then everything will change relative to where you are, based on the above...... pretty much everyday.
    Simple and easy.

    This should help, as it deals with the above. Kinda sorta.
    Nothing worth doing is easy.
    http://lighthouse.tamucc.edu/Waves/CoastalErosion. CLICK ON WAVES
    .....Rob
    Last edited by AVON RIDER; Oct 31, 2010 at 03:50 AM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Long Beach Township
    Posts
    232
    Thank you Avon, I will read into this thoroughly