Hey guys, I've been on a surfboard for about a year now (body-boarding for 5), and I just wanted to get some more knowledge of what I'm surfing.
Can anyone describe what winds (direction, speed, etc) form what types of waves? Also, how does location play a role in the types of waves/breaks are down the shore? (LBI, NJ specifically).
I feel like it's necessary to get a better grasp of how waves form, and I think it's that time for me lol
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Thread: Understanding the Swell
Oct 31, 2010, 01:58 AM #1
Understanding the Swell
Oct 31, 2010, 03:16 AM #2
honestly, your best bet is to find a copy of "waves & beaches" by willard bascom. it's a great book, very enlightening as to the creation, life, & death of the waves we ride & their effects on the sands upon which we live.
i re-read it at least once a year to refresh my memory.
Oct 31, 2010, 03:40 AM #3
Oct 31, 2010, 03:40 AM #4Junior Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
The end product for the most part is Wind Direction,Wave Height and the Bottom Contour.
Which will change because of the Wind Direction,Wave Hight and Bottom Contour from the day before.
Then everything will change relative to where you are, based on the above...... pretty much everyday.
Simple and easy.
This should help, as it deals with the above. Kinda sorta.
Nothing worth doing is easy.
http://lighthouse.tamucc.edu/Waves/CoastalErosion. CLICK ON WAVES
Last edited by AVON RIDER; Oct 31, 2010 at 03:50 AM.
Oct 31, 2010, 03:53 AM #5
Thank you Avon, I will read into this thoroughly