I wish someone would explain the cont shelf theory for the east coast that keeps getting mentioned. At the shelf drop off it ranges from 25-80 feet water depth to shore depending on location. The shoals also play a part.
Very very basic explanation of how the continental shelf effects us in the SOUTH EAST.
Long period swells send energy very very deep into the ocean. When this energy comes into contact with the sea floor it is pushed up creating a swell. When this swell eventually reaches the beach is creates waves. Due to the continental shelf being WAY offshore especially in the south east of the united states, wave energy decays as it approaches our beaches more so than anywhere else in the US. This along with the angle of the past swell, which was a bit too north of our swell window (blocked mainly by cape Hatteras) caused the bust in not only this but many other surf forecasting sites.
However most of you know that long period swells tend to wrap around points and capes. This would have been the case anywhere else but due to the continental shelf in our region the waves never made it here. This is typical of our region and many seasoned surfers and amateur forecasters saw this bust coming days in advance.
Dont blame the site. Swellinfo.com is by far the most reliable and user friendly surf forecasting site for the EAST COAST that exists.
Here are some images to explain what happened:
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