So, buoys are up big time (8-10ft @ 14-15secs), and the surf is 3-4-5' - what the ?!#!
Well, it looks like today (Wednesday) we may be suffering from CS syndrome. It doesnt' happen often, but when a large swell with long period swells occur on the east coast, the Continental Shelf plays a roll in dissipating the swell offshore.
This is most likely the reason its not any bigger today... If you take the same wave heights, periods and aim it towards hawaii you are talking about DOUBLE OH waves easy... This is because around Hawaii, the water is very deep off the coast, so very little disspitation occurs.
It will be interesting to see if the surf gets bigger when the swell drops off a bit (and wave periods shorten). I'm going to do some more research on the ocean depths of the east coast offshore regions and see what kind of thresholds we should be looking at.
Just a little background for anyone who cares:
energy from ocean waves travel down to a depth of 1/2 the wavelength, and wavelength = 1.56 * period * period.
So if the period is 14secs, the wavelength is 1.56 * 14 * 14 = 306m
So a 14 sec swell reaches down 306 / 2 -> 153m or 501 feet
Last edited by Swellinfo; Sep 13, 2006 at 06:55 PM.