Black & Blue Crush: My 1st year as a wipe-out artist

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Black & Blue Crush: My 1st year as a wipe-out artist

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This is the moment I became stoked! Spent 45 minutes tryin to paddle out. I was too uneducated to know any better. But I had a 'Lt. Dan takin on God moment'. I enter the water as one person & exited someone different. I felt 'reborn'

Comments for Black & Blue Crush: My 1st year as a wipe-out artist (9)

  1. #1 SouthjettyBill
    Re: Black & Blue Crush: My 1st year as a wipe-out artist
    Wow, never looked at this picture before.......and when I saw it I said, \"Wow, she has that stoked look on her face.\" Then I clicked on the picture to get to the message section, and it was your \"moment of stoke.\" Wow, uncanny.

    I miss that look you have. I used to get it, but now I don't. Jaded, dude.....jaded. Don't worry you will NOT get jaded for a long time. I've been surfing friggin New Jersey for way too long........way too long. I crave reefs, points and slabs..........I still have fun here and there, but gosh dang nam it, I miss having that feeling that you so obviously have. Stay Gold Ponyboy.....stay gold.........
  2. #2 yourdirtymomma
    Re: Black & Blue Crush: My 1st year as a wipe-out artist
    Thanks SJB.....it's my favorite picture. I will NEVER forget that moment......it changed my life forever.
  3. #3 SouthjettyBill
    Re: Black & Blue Crush: My 1st year as a wipe-out artist
    Yar, there is a very good thing about starting surfing later in life........let's face it, life gets routine and flat after your 20's. Things aren't new or exciting anymore. So, you getting into surfing in your 30's is actually a great thing. You'll be stoked and will have a greater power for living for quite some time. Yeah, you don't get jaded about the east coast for a good twenty years. So, you are golden until your mid-50's, and then you'll regress to being stoked on smaller, less-quality **** anyways!!.........Wow, actually the path of surfing enlightenment you took, is the way to go.

    I've been surfing, hardcore, since 1986. And these Jersey waves, which actually are agruably the east coast's finest(Yeah ok the OBX gets barrels and has consistency, but Jersey outshines it on certain years, and we have more variety. And yes, 2-10 times a year New Hampshire's points go off with the best east coast waves around......and yes, RI outshines everywhere on solid Hurry Cane swells.....LITTLE COMPTON !!!). I need to travel or move. ****, even Florida has Reef Road............Oh yeah we have Sandy Hook........big whoop.........and The Cove in Cape May which is even bigger of a joke. Damn these beach break follies.

    You are not to get bummed by this. You are good. You are golden Ponyboy. As I said, you have YEARS before you will get jaded. That is a very good thing at our age(I'm five years older than you, but probably 15 years more inmature...ahh ha). I wish I was in your position. So be happy, for you have a world of surf adventure to override any mid-life crises. And that is friggin awesome. You picked up the surfing bug at the best of times. ANy problem you may have for the next 18-19 years will be washed away by any humble wave.

    Hey if you and your man ever come up to New Jersey, you contact me and we'll all go get some bubs. You guys drive and I'll navigate. In a year, you need to start doing some east coast traveling. Yes, when you factor everything, the Outer Banks of North Carolina is the best place to go. It's not just about wave consistency. It's about the whole spirituality of the place. This place is the last bastion of the free spirit on the east coast. It is tied into nature unlike any other place on the east coast. Go in October.......it is still warm, it still has Hurry Cane activity and fall low pressure systems. All the stores and restaurants are open sans the summer crowds. And it is absolutely gourgeous there. Ahhhhh October on the Outer Banks...............
  4. #4 SouthjettyBill
    Re: Black & Blue Crush: My 1st year as a wipe-out artist
    Oh yeah, in a few years time you must, and I mean must, get a Five Mil and all the appendages rubber, and hit the North East. You have to. I'm totally cereal........all y'all southerners need to do this. You need to expand your horizons, and leave that warm user-friendly ocean for some cold, thick-water juice.

    It will be a blast for y'all. Imagine a grey, moody, day ...........20 mph offshore winds........a 4-6 Foot swell rolling into some New Hampshire point. Rocks in place of sand, a coast unlike the one you left in Florida. No beach bunnies on the sand, no dudes riding around with boards on their roof, posing as a surf stud in order to attract females.

    You catch a weekday swell that isn't quite good enough for everyone to skip work, but is still plenty good. No beach break close outs. The waves march in from the NE in a uniformed order and mecahnically break and peel for a good hundred yards into a picturesque New England cove. The wave is quality power, yet easy. Dry paddle outs from the channel.........You score one of those magic days, catching a routinely crowded New Hammy point break on an \"off time\" and have it to yourself and your honey. A whole different world from Florida........

    After two hours of riding perfectly tappered head high walls in excess of a hundred yards, you exit the water. The cold, crisp air hits you smack in the face as you head to your car parked along the winding New Hampshire coastal road. Your senses are screaming with adventure and joy. This day has been one to remember......a day for the archives of your life. You are happy, peaceful, and full of mild- adrenaline.

    You drive the winding, slightly hilly, coastal road back to your hotel in Hampton, fully appreciating the smogasboard of views along the way. You shower and dress. You drive back up the New Hampshire coast with an almost opiate-like satisfaction, completely in-tune with all that surrounds you. The coastal road, the magnificent cold weather trees, the waves pouring into the beachbreaks, the slabs, the pointbreaks....... you have never felt so alive and peaceful.

    Navigating the short New Hampshire coast you arrive in the quaint, picturesque town of Ogunquit, Maine. A sleepy, small-town vibe overcomes you, accentuated by the hanging trees, the colonial, historic feel, and the small shops and restaruants. You and your partner mosey into a quiet, romantic eatery intent on slaying some lobsters. Candle light, Yuenglins, and bread are the precursor to the 10 pound North Atlantic lobster, dipped in melted butter grub-fest. Everything is perfect. The food, the atmosphere, the ambviance, and the company - it is all perfect.

    It is twilight when you exit the restaraunt, you casually cruise the \"downtown\" shopping area, holding hands and window shopping. You feel like you are in some paralell world. 1950's-like, a small town's shopping district on the wild coast of Maine......far from the world you left behind in hot, humid Florida. Youse guys walk to the beach. It is dark now. Your unfamiliarity adds to the excitement. You find a sandy shore amongst the rocky coast and saprk a thumb-sized spliff of the good, sticky, stanky ****. You smoke, you talk, your human barriers and gaurds completely gone as you settle on a bench overlooking an esquisite piece of visual landscape highlighted by the full glowing moon.......You, your boy, and the vast North Atlantic.........Dreams come easy in this situation.........You cuddle up, bracing yourselves from the stiff offshores, and go to a place.........a place you have never been before........
  5. #5 yourdirtymomma
    Re: Black & Blue Crush: My 1st year as a wipe-out artist
    WOW! SJB that was beautiful......you paint with words my friend. Are you a writer by trade or just bless with a gift? Absolutely beautiful....you and your words.

    Last year I meet a couple from NH.....they talked about their last Christmas.....they bought each other boards and surfed in the snow alone that day. That's when I decided I must surf in the snow one day. It's not exactly what you described, but you can tell it's not too far fetched to be true for me. Now my man.....that's another story.....pretty sure he'd be watching from the beach, in a jacket, drinking, hot coco, shaking his head at me.....He has no desire to surf the cold. ((P u s s y))

    SJB, when I come up there, I'm SOOOOOO calling you! I will say \"Take me to your jetty Bill!\" Thanks for welcoming me....it's an honor. Also you should know, I'm doing my first OBX trip this Mid-November. Yippie! I'm pretty stoke by the whole thing.

    Well darlin' I hope you and yours are feeling bless and loved as you should. After all, I do love you.
  6. #6 yourdirtymomma
    Re: Black & Blue Crush: My 1st year as a wipe-out artist
    O' and PS.....Thanks for pointing out my perfect timing......I will have surfing to help me through the mid-life breakdown, which I am hoping is a dance, not a tragedy....you know \"break it down now\".

    And you are welcome here.
  7. #7 SouthjettyBill
    Re: Black & Blue Crush: My 1st year as a wipe-out artist
    Well glad you like that New Hammy story........and for even more adventure, if you can grab a boat head to Northern Maine.......it's like being a Somali Pirate and a surf discoverer up there. People in Northen Maine aren't really American. I don't quite know what they are. But there's tons of desolate spots up thataway.

    I am trying to become a writer. I've only recently set my sights and started churning out ****. But man, it's almost as hard as breaking into show business. We'll see what happens. I went to college for all the worng reasons and learned how to drink there. I majored in the most God-awfully boring, annoying, anal retentive, dorky discipline around - accounting. Ah, I didn't care back then. I hung around a South Philly mafia's son, drove him around, and drank. Yeah...........Dirty, I used to hang out at a Barber Shop day and night.

    Then I discovered how gosh darn entertaining I was with a keyboard around 2006........then I was still back and forth with the drinking until two years ago. Now I'm cleared up in the head and ready to move forward. And no, I didn't live some heartbreaking episode of Intervention, my substance abuse was one big 18 year party. I only suffered for a short period of time and then got out. I wouldn't necessarily take it back either. I learned a lot about myself and people. I experienced every gosh dang type of person in every friggin neighborhood.

    So now, I move forward..........You know, I do this message board stuff to keep my scrapping chops up and such....Oh, I can be found on City-Data.com if I ever fall through the cracks here. You never know.........These surfing website owners are so sensitive........Plus I've decided to hassle people based on geographical issues now.

    Well hope your weekend was just grand. Tell your ol man that cold water suring will make him feel more alive than ever. AH Dirty, one of the world's best feelings is surfing good waves on a cold day......then hopping out of your wetsuit(without breaking your thumb...HAHA Mr. Swellinfo Guy....just joking....)and getting into your car and putting the heat on your bare feet.......If you're into pizza and happy smoke they will intensify the satisfaction. But yeah that's the stuff right there........20 degrees out, surf, and heater of the feeter............ Really, it's like being in the womb. Oh sorry you are from Florida. I should have said, \"It's like sniffing oxcycontin.\" HAHA..........you know Floida is pill central and all........so I thought you'd get that metaphor......you know......because you're from Florida.....

    OH ****........DO you know where Angel Beach and all of those dudes from Porky's ?????? OMG, I love those guys !!!! When Pee Wee woke up that morning, I was stoked on Florida. And it has nothing to do with him measuring his *****. It was a rancher house, on a warm Florida day.......window curtains rustling in the sweet South Florida winter breeze.......A no-worry high school day. Hanging out with Meat and the jewish guy......Oh man you can just feel the carefree, joyous times of a more innocent America......just from that one scene.....More layed back than even Southern California.........I want to watch Porky's now......ahhhhhhhh
  8. #8 yourdirtymomma
    Re: Black & Blue Crush: My 1st year as a wipe-out artist
    SJB.....man O' man, I sure do love you. I love the way you think and the way you write. It's always a blast getting a message from you. I laugh, I cry, I have Aha moments. Okay so maybe I don't cry.......But I hope you feel I bring as much to our relationship as I feel you do.
  9. #9 SouthjettyBill
    Re: Black & Blue Crush: My 1st year as a wipe-out artist
    Hey Dirty Mother if I didn't dig you I wouldn't be here now would I? I'd be on pictures from people I don't like leaving threatening messages. See, you keep me out of trouble.

    Just a short one here. You tell EROCK that if he comes up here I will help him locate Ihatelongboarders. IHL is responsible for two of my bannings. I go on YOUTUBE and yell, \"WHERE ARE YOU IHATELONGBOARDERS\" on the north Jersey videos....especially the Long Branch ones. So, if you can find someone to drive, I'll navigate and we'll put a stop to this Ihatelongboarders dork.

    Oh I hope you're having a nice day. DUDE, it's like 68-74 dgrees here today....in the 60's this morning, solid NW winds blowing. It feels like fall !!! No waves but it's nice as all heck out there. I don't much care for the heat. So I'm digging today. I'm going to the downtown area of my Italian Jersey town and russle up some action. Keep it real up in the field a'ight.

    Loving you always, like a pyscho stalker, but a friendly one, not a knife-weilding one