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this one hurt

Added by Mattyb
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by Mattyb
 
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"Deal"  this one hurt  Doomsday killer

  Description for this one hurt

Description by Mattyb

Mattyb

monmouth beach. this was the only wave I got. I didnt make it. I am still hurting

Comments for this one hurt (4)

  1. #1 AgeDnj13
    Re: this one hurt
    where in mb is this
  2. #2 Mattyb
    Re: this one hurt
    In between central ave and sea bright. I tried to paddle out where it was breaking closest to shore, cuz im not that strong a swimmer/paddler/surfer anymore, but im trying. The current pushed me way north and I got lucky trying to get back into the shore. My buddy took this from someone's busted seawall stairs. I started out well but eventually got swallowed. Let me know i shouldn't have been out there.
  3. #3 pkovo
    Re: this one hurt
    Love this shot. Pure NJ. Looking at the pic gives me that feeling in the pit of my stomach I get when I paddle out on days like this...knowing I am going to take a beating, and probably for only a few rides if I'm lucky.
  4. #4 Mattyb
    Re: this one hurt
    Yeah man! This picture makes it look like I surfed well that day. But this was it. Haha, spent the rest of the day gasping for air and trying to will my arms to paddle harder. I got pounded before, during, and after this wave. When my buddy showed me the picture it made the whole humbling experience worth it. Next year, il be ready.