
Then they all paddle for the same wave, ''who's on first, what's on second, and I don't know who is on third.'' Right. Truth be told, protocol won out and the three lead would-be interlopers pulled out. It helps when you know each other.
As for how often I shoot photos- it all depends on a variety of factors. 1) My personal ''ride-time'' formula 2) The size and aggressiveness of the pack 3) The relative temperatures, both water and air 4) and especially the conditions at the location I happen to choose for a particular swell. Aside from all of those determiners, I really don't care for heavy closeouts and I don't mind being called a ''wuz'' at all. Better a healthy and happy ''wuz'' than a hurt or broken ''charger.'' At 12 short years from 70, I'd much rather live to surf another day. So the short answer to your question about when I shoot photos- When I feel like it. It's the next best alternative to actually being in the water, which I'd always rather do. Winter temps are not easy to take after a stroke.
Comments for OCM 10/21/08 (3)