Re: this one hurt In between central ave and sea bright. I tried to paddle out where it was breaking closest to shore, cuz im not that strong a swimmer/paddler/surfer anymore, but im trying. The current pushed me way north and I got lucky trying to get back into the shore. My buddy took this from someone's busted seawall stairs. I started out well but eventually got swallowed. Let me know i shouldn't have been out there.
Re: this one hurt Love this shot. Pure NJ. Looking at the pic gives me that feeling in the pit of my stomach I get when I paddle out on days like this...knowing I am going to take a beating, and probably for only a few rides if I'm lucky.
Re: this one hurt Yeah man! This picture makes it look like I surfed well that day. But this was it. Haha, spent the rest of the day gasping for air and trying to will my arms to paddle harder. I got pounded before, during, and after this wave. When my buddy showed me the picture it made the whole humbling experience worth it. Next year, il be ready.