When the waves are flat in NC, I skateboard a 5-mile loop near my home in Cary, NC, which is 2-hours away from the closest beach. While nothing compares to riding a waves, these downhills give me a nice longboard feel with a changing view -- neighborhoods, retail, sidewalks, office parks, streets, schools, greenways, water, etc -- every half-mile. A few of the downhills are super fast and some turns are tight, especially around the pond (near the end of the video). This video captures what I still love about popping on headphones and cruising on a board -- even at age 41. Although I'll take 2-3' clean surf any day.
It was a fun day - over 3 hours - of 2-3' fairly clean waves at Wrightsville Beach's South End on December 27, 2012. It was one of the few days this fall I was able to use something other than a longboard. The water was 55 degrees and the air around 47. I wore a 4-3 Xcel drylock and filmed on a GoPro 3.
The morning after the tragedy in Connecticut, I felt the urge to unplug from news so I went surfing. It was a pretty cold December day at Wrightsville Beach, but I couldn't help but notice how many people and dogs I picked up on my video camera during my 2-hour surf session. I imagine they were unplugging, too. So with the David Wilcox 'Almost Time' song that looped in my head I put this video together.
The payoff for bad waves and overcast skies is an empty beach in November. The song 'Boys of Summer' came to mind during my drive in ("empty streets") and throughout my morning surf session. I just added it to the GoPro footage I captured and it seemed to capture the mood pretty well.