VIDEOGRAPHY: Jeffrey O'Neil
EDIT: Brett Barley
Winter has been late to the game this year, but Fashionably late is always excusable, especially in Winter Storm Jonas' case! We've had a very consistent Fall and Winter of fun waves on the Outer Banks, but hadn't had a pumping day of waves in a long time, until swell from Jonas showed up.
The first day was howling offshore and really peaky, making it hard to be in the spot, but incredibly rewarding if you were. Not to mention we even had some snow flurries for most of the afternoon session. Day 2 was out of control wind and swell wise, then Day 3 conditions went blue bird and sheet glass. The swell period was still too high with buoy readings 9-10ft @ 14-15seconds, so finding somewhere that wasn't doubled up was a challenge. We lucked out, even though both sessions we should have ideally been out hours earlier, we managed to find some pretty good waves. Day 4 of the swell was great for leftovers, with fun little tubes and air sections.
THIS is what Winter on the Outer Banks is all about... I don't know what's been going on the last few years, but this is the kind of surf I grew up being accustomed to between November and April. Hopefully this El Nino winter keeps kicking us some conditions that continue to allow Hatteras Island to show it's True Winter Form.
As I started to anticipate my trip back to Hawaii this month, I went looking back through some footage from last year. I came across an edit I had worked on last winter but never produced (O'neill did a team edit using the footage).
As a fun way to look back at last year, and prepare for this season, i figured I'd finish off the edit for fun.
Hawaii is a recurring trip for so many surfers... It's a lot of stress dealing with the sheer amount of people all there at the same time, but it is a lot of fun too. I had more fun during my stay last year than many of the other trips I've made since i started going.
So i'm excited to get back, and hoping to see some Pipe swells before i end up coming home.
"Joaq'easter" (/Wah-Kee-Ster/) - when a Nor'Easter and Hurricane Joaquin provide you with relentless rain, onshore winds, and no forecasted days of good surf in sight, yet surprisingly at the end of it all, the forecasts are wrong and the waves get really fun.
Prior to the 3 days of fun surf in this video, the entire East Coast was scoring except the Outer Banks. I was anxious because of that, and spent the days prior, driving overnight searching for a rare wave that didn't break, and paddling out in awful conditions, and lots of current trying to make something happen that wasn't. I exhausted myself before these 3 days even started. In hindsight I blew it because I was tired before the best part of the swell, but no one knew it was going to get any fun.
In these 3 days I surfed four 5hr long sessions, and a 2.5hrs session... The latter part of every session was spent in delirium, and even though I couldn't surf anymore, I stayed out just hoping to get one more fun wave. I didn't want to miss a moment of what we had, since it'd been forever since we had had anything as fun. I went so far as to push myself, paddling as hard as I possibly could against the current before dark the first evening, to the point where I almost threw up from hunger/lack of strength, all because I wanted to get one more barrel before dark.
I'm so thankful the OBX got some relief from the miserable weather and conditions... This is the Cape Hatteras surf I grew up loving, and I hope to see more of this more often in the future.
As a fun way to get excited for the upcoming Hurricane Season (come on, most good storms happen between late August and October), I've compiled clips from the last 5years of Hurricanes and Tropical Storms.
Now... I missed a couple good ones, and didn't have anyone filming on one or two others, so this isn't a detailed breakdown, but should serve as a reminder that there is plenty of swell action to come. All of the storms in this clip happened in September or October.
So, East Coasters, rest easy knowing that it's only going to get better from here on out. Summer is ending, and the Tropics are heating up. Here's to hoping for plenty of storm surf without any systems making landfall and causing destruction.
Big thanks to Kurt Korte from SURFLINE for the latest forecast update on TS Danny that's currently churning in the Atlantic.
I set up my Soloshot 2 on the beach, changed into my 5/4mm Wetsuit, 7mm Boots, & 5mm Gloves, and paddled out for a 5hr session till dark. Though not very big, it was perfect. For 5hrs I paddled, surfed, ran up the beach, and repeated, over and over again… Until i was the last guy in the water, and the last car out of the parking lot. Nothing beats that feeling.
Hurricane Gonzalo slowly rolled offshore of the East Coast back in mid October… Cape Hatteras was graced with 3 days of offshore winds, and really fun sized surf. Soloshot2 was there to capture every minute of the swell too!
If you like groomed righthand tubes, and punk rock… Click Play and Enjoy.
Morning surfs here are awesome... Or anywhere for that matter. Waking up at dark, heading to the beach early, and seeing green water barrels right off the sand is the best feeling in surfing ever. Super glassy morning with just a few friends, followed by an afternoon of much the same...
Here's another installment of what surfing along Cape Hatteras is all about.
When the storms come from the SouthWest, and the Winds howl for hours on end, and the rain pours down nonstop, we are greeted afterwards with reeling Righthand barrels. Take a look inside the belly of a Southswell on Cape Hatteras, and see what a typical day full of barrels is like around here.
From the moody morning session to the beautiful evening session... this is what living here is all about.
Around Cape Hatteras in the Fall and Winter time, there are many sessions had with only a few other guys out. There are also many sessions spent alone... And so you spend a lot of the season surfing Almost Alone.
Follow this Post
Link to Post
Ban this Post
Are you sure you want to remove this surfer from your crew?
Are you sure you want to hide this user's posts?
Are you sure you want to delete this post? This cannot be reverted.
The url below will link you directly to this post: