Monday, August 26th. 3 hours before High Tide. Swell was running 6 feet at about 7 seconds. For 2 hours, it was really fun. About 1 hour before high tide everything started lining up. Sets were check plus with some punchy sections. Reform was working too with fast little inside sections. About 10 guys on it by high tide and it started to crap out. Super fun considering I expected next to nothing when I got there. Had fun on the Sharp Eye Disco and the Fish.
When the storm passed, the wind died around 3pm and it got fun. Chest to shoulder peaks. Drifted down to the jetty/inlet and the waves there were hollow. Enough juice for 2-3 turns. Rights were a bit longer than the left. South Current.
When the storm passed at 2pm, wind went offshore and the surf was running waist to occasional chest. Clean conditions, decent lines on the standout sets. Incoming to high tide around 4pm was really fun on a quad fish. The crowd gathered around 5pm