12/6/2007
socal Bolsa Chica
Started off fun and peaky. Looked like the tide was to high and was causing a back wash but it turned out it was better earlier as it was less consistent and more peaky. I spent Wednesday morning gabbing and taking photos. I kept telling myself to surf first and take photos later. I did not listen. By the time I finally got my suit on and went done to the water, the waves pick up a bit in size but became constant with few lulls that were hardly long enough to be considered a lull. I waited and waited and then talked my self out of paddling. As I walked back to the car I saw 5 good lefts being ridden and followed by a long lull. Time was running out on my morning so I decided to give it a try anyway and so did a few others. None of us made it out and I consider myself a very strong surfer. It sucks because I was almost there. Just a few yards from getting to deeper water and more in the impact zone and I would have made it out. I got some stats from my cartoonist that was watching us and he said I paddled for 12 minutes and duck-dived 30 + waves, was almost out over the sandbar shelf but all of us got sucked down to an area that met up with a set of different set of peaks that just pushed us back. The surfers in the photos were either kicking out or wiping out before ending up in that zone were we where so they kept on going. I should have tried a second time. I should have paddled out with my friend early on when it was more peaking and less closed out and consistent. Here are some of the photos from that morning. I bet today was fun too. Hopefully you all get some and today before the weather get all fouled up.