So, I am surfing yesterday, about chest to head high, not too crowded. Mid day, windswell, peaky afternoon. I got a handful of decent waves... I am finally in perfect position for the best set wave of the day... Take off on a perfect wedgy left... It Had quite a wall on it, so my intentions were to take off on a nice fast, high line, get around the walled up section with a cutback and continue on from there.... So as Im taking off, some tourista surfer had blown the wave ahead of me on some fun shape egg and was in the flats paddling right towards the face, right into my line, so I stall out on the face, making eye contact with the guy, so I have to drop straight down and take a super deep bottom turn, thus losing all my speed and basically followed him back up the wave face as he ducked through it... Im bummed, cause im on the best wave of the day, losing speed, heading up the face, so I slam on the breaks, reposition to go down the line because ive lost all my juice at this point, and BAM!!! Barrel time... Because this dude blew my line and made me slow down, I pulled under what I thought was a closeout wall and I was right in the slot... I came out clean and got a couple more turns... called it a day... I was tempted to go back out and thank him for being a donkey... First time I can say that someone ruining my wave resulted in a perfectly good barrel.... Only barrel I saw all day too... Thank you blind tourista Surfer who I almost ran over.... You made my day and you dont even know it.... I understand that I will probably never encounter a positive result from almost running over a tourist, but man, I really thought that time as we know it might come to a halt.
get outta here with that west coast bull spit!!!......no one cares about your barrel or your head high waves. It's the same passive aggressive/back door snide stories from you about your experience in good waves every summer while we're stuck in no man's land out here. I know what you're doing....trying to act all matter of fact while also rubbing it in.... go to a west coast forum or zip it!!
put on the brakes? Should have aimed for his head, then he'll think twice about it next time. They don't learn unless you send a warning shot across the bow. It helps to be a good ding repairman in such circumstances.
Zach , is this your first session since the new baby girl? And i realize you were not trying to rub anything in, but man we are in the midst of no wave flat spell and its been along time for some of us to have any kind of waves. I scored Stomach high peaks waist high lines like 3 weeks ago now and thats the best surf i have scored in board shorts that i can remember since early maybe late june. There have been some freaky eveing swells that pop up but we havent had really fun surf over waist high in some time now. So if you get some guys a bit grouchy its because the Atlantic has not been kind to us. Chest high would be unreal right now
but im not new to life and realize a whole lot of things. besides i been reading this stuff for a good while i just didnt ever reply til lately.
Zach- Haters gonna hate, man. I hear you, dodging people and tucking into unexpected pits is all part of Gerry Lopez's description of surfing "operating in the present". I have found that people paddling back through the drop zone often cause me to swing wide and really exaggerate my bottom turn, resulting in mad speed and a steep angle coming up for that lip. Plus, it scares the piss out of someone when they see you, you see them, you charge anyways knowing "I got this"
wow, sorry to piss anyone off with that one. ive not been paying attention to how flat its been back home. But i have read about 50 posts on here in the past couple months with guys all over the mid atlantic talking about how they hate the tourists and how they ruin everything, so I thought some people may get a kick out of it... again, it wasn't about the wave really.... it was about the situation. ive never had anything positive to say when anyone donkeys me, even in knee high surf.... thought it was rather ironic.... and Bushwood: No, ive been out like 3 times per week on average so far.... I was just glad, cause i just gotta get up and go when i have any time in between baby feedings and the wife... So its been a crap shoot every day i go out. That day was actually real fun tho. peace.
seriously, i wasn't trying to rub waves in anyones face. I didn't even think about the aspect of flatness at all when i was writing that. I thought every surfing story involves a wave, even when its flat out. I could certainly be more selective when discussing waves in the summer. Seriously though, I get where you are coming from and I respect that. I honestly was not passive agressively trying to rub salt in anyones wounds. Just sharing a story.
Hey, Elmer Fudd, stay in school. At least until you learn how to spell. That way you can get that 'career' that you've been craving at Popeye's.