anyone get on it today?

So now you're acting like I'm some sort of kook because I made a promise to my wife and kids and kept it. Classy, bro.

And it doesn't take a huge double overhead day for something weird to happen, like a spinal cord injury. And with no one in the water to help things could get ugly. The true kook, my friend, is anyone who thinks they can only get hurt on a double overhead day.

 

Every time I have been hurt it happened in relatively small surf. I broke my nose on a knee to thigh high day, got my teeth knocked out and a waist high plus day, gashed my arm on a chest high day, chipped my skull on a shoulder high day. Now that I'm older (mid 40's) I don't venture out when it is absolutely macking which to me is head to overhead top to bottom barrels. Mushy head + I will still go out but am very conservative.

 

Woah Woah... Slow down my man. Hahah no one said anything about being a kook. No worries, just breaking balls. Family is everything brotha. Dont take it personal. Just more waves for me!!!! Happy Holidays All!!

Cheers!

 

Is there hope for a fun session in NJ tomorrow morning?

 

I actually had a pretty awesome day today as well.. obviously not as good as wednesday but I had just as much fun. Like always the Casino pier was crowded but these dopes are tradin off inconsistant mush with 14 of their closest friends all on the south side, where the north side was just as good. I surfed an hour on the south side with the crowd and then went over to the north for the another 2 hours. Surfed waist high glass all by myself for the last 2 hours... I'll take it

 

Okay, sorry bro. Your suggestion that I get a wave jet just got my hackles up. Those things are the devil's work for sure. Peace.

 

LOL..That's pretty funny. Reading my post now, it does sound rather lame. I think i just felt too slow/behind the wave that day. Do you think they sell those vests with expandable waists?

 

not only fewer risks also I surf less in favor of putting time into my business so my kids will have all the financial advantages that I can give them, missed every session this week so I could work on a proposal, once you have kids its not about you anymore (unless you're a piece of ****) its hard to explain, if me now at 40 were to go back and time and say this to me at 25 I'd be like yeah whatever loser

 

i agree with this - to a point. i've gotta take some personal time away from the fam to come back a better family man. i am definitely a better (more patient, caring, giving, loving) father/husband/son/brother if i get out regularly. if i don't get out i start to become just the opposite of those things. it sounds terrible to be so dependent on a wave fix. but it's true.

 

This morning was fun!

 

DE or MD for tomorrow?? Not looking for spots, just a general suggestion. It's a hike and a half from Baltimore and I hate being wrong!

 

My buddy got knocked out cold on a small day (knee to thigh high) while nose riding. Nobody actually saw it happen - he was up - and when we looked back he was in the water not moving. Somebody grabbed him right away and he came too almost immediately while coughing up water. I'm not sure if he would have came too if he wasn't pick out of the water so fast. It looked like his rail hit him on the temple cause the rail was shattered. Needless to say he had a lump to match. Anything can happen and with out help it could end up bad. I respect anyone who dosent want to surf alone now.