Your rituals, good/bad habits

It's better than that filthy thread about releasing the brown trout out in the lineup- my buddy & I were in Nosara and drove down to Carmenal- we got there, it was solid & we both had to dig holes and sit on a big driftwood log. Wiping, really more scraping, your crack clean with a stick you found on the beach is quite an experience.

 

Crapping in the Ocean = not cool. It's like giving Mother Ocean a Dirty Sanchez....

 

Weren't ready for all of the beans and rice?

 

haha this thread is slowly going to ****... wait what?

 

I like to start off with a cup of coffee, PB&J, and a banana. Go do a spot check at a few of my favorite jetties. If its looking good I get overly stoked and then have to take a dump. This happen to anyone else? After that I suit up and pick my weapon of choice. then its time to hit the water.

 

grab coffee, some fruit and a breakfast sandwich and a gallon of water and 5 hour energy
jam out to some heavy hard-hitting, fast, pumping, deafening music
take the Browns to the Superbowl
park, check the waves, suit up, wax up, put on some waterman's 50+ spf, chug 5 hr. energy, pack a lipper
get pitted, so pitted!

 

hell I could eat desayuno tipico for the rest of my life!

 

Yup, I hate that feeling of excitement and then having to take a crap knowing I'm about to hop in.

 

Rituals: rubbing wax on the bottom of my feet, especially for post work sessions.

saying a little "thanks" to the big guy prior to entering the water

 

Yep ...Not stretching or stretching too little. That one seems common .

Forgetting ****... Not like a towel,fin key or wax ... I mean heading out with everything BUT a board , or wetsuit .
Staying out too long, no sunscreen ...

On the + side I never snake anyone and am sure to remind myself no matter how bad the conditions, at least I'm not at work.

 

I stretch on the beach before each session.....but I don't consider that a ritual.....my ritual is to paddle out past the break and wave to the open ocean while saying "Hi Africa, it's me Dirty Momma!" (sometimes to the embarrassment of my companions)

When I first started surf a year ago-ish, a surfer told me "This wave came all the way from Africa, just for you." Now I know that not really how it works, but it works for me That thought always stokes me.

 

Get a little somethin in my belly, take a look at the spot make sure all is well, usually will give a solid "thanks bro" to Lucifer, my main man downstairs, shred for a little, holler at some b1tch3z, get home, crush all edibles in the house, masturbate.. twice, play a sick riff, fall asleep.

 

Take a giant mook first thing..then coffee. Then another mook. Some bacon.butterd toast.maple syrup.banana.OJ...Another Mook. More coffee. Stretch it out and paddle out

 

a giant mook? did i miss something? Damook?

 

Music playing while changing or parking always puts me in the right.

 

No time for stretching when its firing, too amped. Besides stretching cold muscles is dumb and over rated.

 

Every swell day starts with massive ice coffee, food and dump. I triple check my suit booties gloves and leash. I have driven too far and realized that I forgot something.
Bad- Blazing too much if the surf is good, I'd rather be on point when is ripping. Also the grass is always greener mentality. You know "this beach break is sweet right now, but I wonder what that other spot is doing now??". Just gotta pull the trigger in regards to staying or going.

 

^^^This is my exact list... down to the letter

 

hahahahaahaha

 

Tend to defecate in my board shorts before going in water (keeps everyone away from me).