There is nothing like scoring perfect waves for me, but I'm pretty happy doing anything active or outside. Surf, Ski, Golf, Tennis, Mountain Bike, Baseball, Basketball, Football, Ping Pong, Bowling, Darts. Its all good to me. And, if you live on the East Coat, you better find some other hobby outside of surf...
I guess I ment anyone who is fit and able,and also has the will to dedicate themselves can learn.I caught my first real wave on a surfboard at 44,still learning of course,dont think I'll ever be kelly slater but having fun and thats why I picked it up.I feel a bond with nature too,but feel that way most of the time no matter what i'm doing(outside).It is a personal expression ,we all approach it differently.
Ridiculous - maybe, but I still love it. I'm new at it and I even put on a human condom just to go into 40 degree water and fall off a bunch of times. I even went out early one morning (7 am) when air temp was 32 degrees. When my husband woke up at about 9:00 he freaked! Luckily I was already out of the water when he called to find out if I was ok
surfing is the greatest thing,and ever since kelly slater became known to golf so is golfing.the day we went from outlaw renegade beach-bum surfers to a bunch of rich-boy pretty boy surfers.dude
Just got my two older daughters (12 and 10) their first wetsuits. We went out yesterday in the lake Atlantic. I just wanted them to get used to paddling in a wetsuit, and get used to the chilly temps. After about a half hour and some frozen toes, we headed in. They both were talking about just how happy they were to be back in the water. Let me jump in a flat, cold ocean to paddle around for a half hour, get out with a smile on my face and ask when are we gonna do it again. I guess they are "all in" on this ridiculous sport, and I am psyched.
After a shark attack in my local area a few weeks back my girls wont stay in the water for more than an hr. They joke me for having a Koi leg tatt...Im kicking bait ..bring it!!!
"I tried surf-bathing once, subsequently, but made a failure of it. I got the board placed right, and at the right moment, too; but missed the connection myself. The board struck the shore in three-quarters of a second, without any cargo, and I struck the bottom about the same time, with a couple of barrels of water in me. None but natives ever master the art of surf-bathing thoroughly." - Roughing It by MT.
golf is a game not a sport. An before some of you golfers get your panties in a bunch, I played the GAME for the first 16 years of my life before my parents finally let me quit. It IS exceptionally hard but still a game. I recently started downhill mountain biking and that is a blast! To everyone who says that surfing is the greatest thing ever....must never heard of something called sex I guess.
"I played the GAME for the first 16 years of my life" I had a boss who was really into golf and when she asked me if I played, I responded truthfully and said, "Yes, but never sober and I don't plan on changing that any time soon." She was actually insulted by that which led me to conclude that golfers take themselves way too seriously...........
When I lived in Michigan (for four years) I got into mountain biking heavily. I found that on downhills, it was similar to surfing in that you sort of pick a line at the top, but have to make all these little tweaks and adjustments on the way down. I'd say that if you surf, and live away from the coast, a good single track makes for a reasonable substitute until you get back to the water.
--thats your nagging girlfriend talking dude. As the kid selling a board to Johnny Utah in Point Break said "surfing is the source", you know it so just live it.
This is a short blog I wrote about it.....I think is says what I mean.... "A lot of people surf for sport, but I’m not good enough to call it sport. To me it’s more of a spiritual experience. Anything that involves one ass kicking after another interrupted by perfect moments of grace, feels more like a religious experience than a hobby or sport. But a 1000 wipe outs is worth it all in that spilt second when everything comes together; when somehow some way I did just the right thing at the right time and I find myself riding down the line...and though it’s just for a moment, for that moment nothing else matters."