I will say that spending time on the log has made me correct a lot of my bad habits that I formed on the short boards. Going back to the basics is great for you.
I try to generate too much power from my front leg on turns, particularly off the top. Bought a Carver skateboard about a month ago so have been practicing on land using my back leg. It's never too late to teach an old dog new tricks. I hope.
1. being too low on the wave face pulling into the barrel. not sure why this happens but i think i need to be mindful of it. usually doesn't happen on days w/ lots of barrels but moreso when i'm not really expecting it? will cause me to pull out sometimes b/c i don't have enough speed to make it. really frustrating. 2. fear of pulling into barrel in really shallow water. not sure if this is a bad thing.
Not checking out different breaks to see if their going off.I have 3 favorite spots and don't check anything else.
A few weeks ago I tried to pull in and got guillotined across the back of my neck by the lip of the wave. When I came up, there was an old dude on a log laughing so hard at me, I thought he was going to have a heart attack. I had a good laugh too.
i'm a lazy paddler. i ride thick boards, i take off late instead of paddling early, i get out and walk rather than fight the drift, i obsessively time sets before paddling out.. i wasn't like this when i was young.
Feet Placement. I for some reason usually ALWAYS have too wide of a stance. I don't know why it is or wtf to do about it besides try to fix it while im riding the wave but moving your feet around trying to race down a line is not the best use of the ride. sooo many turns and snaps kooked out. ahhhh
the worst thing I do is the occasional double arm paddle- it never works and looks super kooky. I've gotten away from it almost completely but if I'm having a melt down session it comes back to haunt me.
Staying at Bobby's pad at Mar Azul, but thanks, his place is pretty cheap and boards are free, good look though
My gift to all of you.... For those beating themselves up over their bad habit....this is a reminder of how bad you (I) use to be..... Disclaimer....I'm the kookie looking one, it's a intentional party wave, I'm not dropping in on that guy who laughs his ass off at me. Just in case anyone wants to hear to.....in my last session I didn't wipe-out, not once And yes I caught and rode many waves. This girl has come a long way! Yippie! Yeah me!
Stepping on the tail of the board and flipping it up in your arms and spinning 180 degrees back towards the line up looks cool when I see surfers do it, but sometimes you have to fish out and bail as line the wave closes out. and like yersterday in Surfside we had head high surf, and I fished out and got about 15ft off the water. It probably looked cool and it was a wave statement after a clean and flowing ride. bad surfing habits are ones that interfere with other surfers catching waves, as long as I am curtious in the water towards other surfers, then when my bad habits are pointed out to me, I can correct them and vice versa.