so i surf here in texas and ive never had a longboard so ive just been surfing shortboards and i was decent at it but cause of the summer i havent even been bothering getting out and surfing but even when i was i was just going straight toward the beach following the white water. well today at octagon i went out and by the time i got out to the line up i was exhausted from paddling out so i guess i need to do some more homework(go out even on not so good quality days just so i dont get outta shape)haha. well yesterday the waves i did manage to catch i would try to turn to go along the face and the board would just turn over sideways. then i started to lean back and try to pivot but with as slow as i was going i couldnt get the wave to pick me back up... soooo thennnn i started to put pressure on my front foot to get some speed and then i would try to lean back and pivot on on my back foot or lean on the rails which would again cause the board to turn over so that wasnt working either or the wave would pass me up. and sometimes when i would put weight on my front foot id speed but then id keep adding more pressure cause id want more speed but then the front would go under. im about 5'7.5'' tall and the board is a 6'3'' biscuit so any advice in general on what i said?
Now... if you were 5' 7.83", and riding a 6'2" Disco, I could have easily informed you regarding the physics of distribution of mass, fulcrum positioning, and rotational forces (centrifugal, centripetal). Unfortunately, at your current height with a 6'3" biscuit, all turning is simply IMPOSSIBLE. It's like dividing by Zero! Sorry... my condolences. Going straight is kinda cool though, right? (GOD, has it has come to this? please send waves soon!)
well for the sake of learning can you explain why its impossible and the physics behind it?? im looking at getting a summer/small wave board and that info will be useful lol
theres no trick dude. you just have to surf a lot, watch those that are better than you while your surfing, and watch surf vids. Theres no easy way out. Need water time
it's a delicate balance of power, strength, and the Pythagorean theorem. Just take the square root of your weight to the 17 significant figure and calculate your body heat in joules. Then divide by the logarithm of the negative reciprocal and divide by 2
Ur makin it to complex bra. Take ur spills like everyone else but take em as lessons. Feel the wave n the energy n if it pushed its rite n if its not its wrong. Alot of beginners try to turn w just their shoulders but its a whole body type of thing leaning n croutchung n twisting accordingly. Its not a matter of lean n push a ceratin way. U have to b completely loose m open to how the wave works conforming to every bump barrel or closeout. Just relax bro n try not to get to complex. It will all come in good time. But uve been givin ur first sign if ur tired from paddling out ur def not giving surfing the dedication it deserves to ask for advice. Just start paddling for every wave that comes ur way. Practice makes perfect but perfect practice makes gods
If you live on the Gulf (as I have) you will need to pick up a longboard or at least a fun board to get more out of the mush burgers we are blessed with. Luckily being in FL I have the E. Coast too, but I have had my fair share of Gulf sessions over the years and short boards will only offer you so much fun unless a storm comes along
