The waves were rediculous this morning and its still going off...wayyyyyy underforecasted for jersey shore id say 5-6+, beautiful a frames an barrels, soo glassy, today is a perfect surf day go out an enjoy!
surfed 8-11am... perfect spitting barrels... overhead drops into heaving doubleup grinders... Between yesterday afternoon's session and this morning, I'm SHOT. But I'll still hit it again before dark! Ha!
F Cali... They get plenty of ****ty mushy onshore days. Today was good by any standards. Going into low this afternoon it was barrels and barrells, most very makable with the swell direction and offshore winds Plus, how often does "Cali" blow offshore from dawn to dusk? Amazing day. Perfect Jersey
Three sessions since yesterday afternoon. Each one better than the last. Prett big crowds today, but plenty for everyone. The body is aching, but can't wait for tomorrow's AM session.
^huh? This week was bombing overhead tuesday through thursday with morning "santa ana" winds (warm offshore) wed-fri. all next week is supposed to be waist to chest+ in cali. Offshore winds every morning and friday is supposed to be offshore all day. love me some east coast shape, but cali will be rocking pretty much every day until at least december...and then it'll get BIG
Past week In l.a. Area was beat.. This week I'll be in San Diego and forecast also looks beat... Missing jersey big time, even though cali life is great.
I lived 5 blocks from the beach in LA for 5 years and, in most aspects, it was usually kinda beat. Not only do they not pick up NW swell, there's only a few spots that don't close out (redondo "supertubes" breakwater, el porto, chevron jetty and "sh*t-pipe"...and those spots were crowded even in the late 80s. Can't imagine now) hopefully, you'll enjoy SD as it has tons more makeable spots and isn't as "shadowed" so probably picks up more south and west energy
