Heading on a well deserved surf trip without the family. Any book recommendations surf related? I'm notorious for falling asleep in a hammock but I'm usually good for a couple pages a day.
mentioned it before in other threads but you cant go wrong with captain zero. probably my favorite "surf" book
If you are interested in HI surfing: "Fierce Heart: The Story of Makaha and the Soul of Hawaiian Surfing" Books by Kem Nunn are good reads.
I actually really did not enjoy this book, but maybe I just don't really enjoy the oral history format. In Search of Captain Zero, however, is tremendous.
I suppose another thread about good books isn't a bad thing. My most recent surf related read was The Wave by Susan Casey. Great book.
these books are good... but in the grand scale of books, they aren't. Grab some Hemingway, man. Start with The Old Man and the Sea. It's short, set in / near the ocean, and will make you want to read everything he has ever written.
2nd that. A great read; Couldn't put it down. Daring The Sea Surfing's Greatest Misadventures Tom Blake, The Uncommon Journey of a Pioneer Waterman Isaac's Storm Surfing The Great Lakes, P.L. Strazz Some Like It Cold
all for a few perfect waves, great stories about Dora. cant you get along with anyone, is weisbeckers' follow up to, in search of captain zero, great read, another by weisbecker is cosmic banditos.The crossing, is relatively new, the big drop, big wave stories. inside mavericks, history of mavs. surfing brilliant corners by sam bleakley. elmore leonard isnt surf related but his short stories are classic. that should get you started.