Me and two buddies went out at Java East, it was so rough, my buddies couldn't get out past the break. I managed to get out about 4 times,.....WOW.....intense. The waves were so huge, we were out past the peir, no joke some waves looked to be 8-10 ft. I surfed 4 of the biggest waves of my life. the drop in was so intense, sent butterflies in my stomach just catching them,.....what a rush.But honestly the water was too rough.We went to Springmaid peir, and some of the waves were crashing on the peir...CRAZY, but we are going to go back out Saturday & Sunday, hoping for nice waves. KANETICSURFKID
8-10ft, try 4 to maybe 6, you will know when you see 8-10 and it aint here unless that storm is right on top of us. Hate to have a lid in the pic, but this looks about a solid 10 : http://www.swellinfo.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=419&c=21
if you guys had trouble getting out yesterday then you might want to think twice before paddling out when we do actually get some hurricane surf.
I went out this morning, I couldn't really get out past the break. As soon as I got into deep water the currents swept me south towards the pier. This was early, before the wind got too bad. I wound up bodyboarding the shorebreak for a while, then the wind got stronger and I couldn't even do that. Twisted my ankle on a takeoff 'cause the choppy waves twisted my fin around. The wind was so strong that the sand was blowing around like drifting snow in a blizzard. It'd be nice if it cleaned up for the weekend, but the forecast says choppy.
Really? I surfed three times in the past few days and I barely drifted at all. It was kinda disappointing that there wasn't any after getting in the water 5 blocks north of where my stuff was. I guess 'cause it's a south swell.
yea i've been going out at about 7-730 in the morning when the wind isnt on it so bad. Some pretty good size to the sets around chest high and bigger.
im still sleeping at that time. but the size doesnt get to me or the paddle out as long as it's not drifty then i would go out on a head high day but if it's not worth it i wouldnt bother but the drops get to me especially the late drops but i've overcome some of the drop fear but i'm still working on those late drops.
wowwww. thats sad i went out the past 2 days. it was rough and the current was bad. but if you cant paddle out with ease on a day like yesterday or today, that is pathetic. you need to hit the gym. it was like 4-6ft where I was at. some of the sets were lining up. otherwise it was complete chaos. very unorganized.
i was actually talking that its tough to paddle out when it's head high choppy and the wind is blowing like sh:t and im riding my longboard. i can actuall paddle with ease on my shortboard but when im on the longboard its tough since you trully cant duckdive with ease like your on a shortboard.
Man I haven't surfed in days because of Fay. I would go, but I'm stuck at home all day with no reasonable way to get to the beach. I would go tonight just to go, but I caught with an invitation to the Ice House (skating). (Dang!). I like ice skating and all, but I like surfing better