Trying To Explain Where to start? Where to begin? It’s like being born again. Opened completely without shame, Discovering new realms without pain, Diving deep and struggling for self, To grace the goal…you're your only help. Mysteries surface, They come and they go, The more you witness the smaller you grow. But in this tininess…in this now, You’re more than you’ve ever been…stronger somehow. Maybe you don’t get me… Where to start? Where to begin? It’s like being born again. --DirtyMomma
Carpe Surf'em Floating in the tranquility, Ignoring my fragility, The ocean breathes beneath me. The rise and fall, The peace of it all, Time has released me. Waiting for a wave to come, Nothing exists but the One, An inspiration to me. Grateful for the pull of the moon, Stress somewhere far past the dunes The elements seize me. It has all comes down to this minute, No one to compete with, I’m the only one in it. No one can take it from me, I’m the only one that can win it. Thank you Africa, Thank you hurricane, Thank you struggle, Thank you pain Thank you God for a life reborn, renewed, and reframed.
O’ To Be A Kook Again O’ how I miss those first days of my kookiness… When being pushed into a wave was a reason to live, When riding the white water on your stomach was cause to smile, When staying up for more than three seconds justified a victory stance. O’ how I miss those first weeks of my kookiness… When dropping in on my knees still counted as “dropping in”, When accidently going down the line meant total triumph, When catching the reform three times on one ride stoked me so much I couldn’t sleep. O’ how I miss those first months of my kookiness… When standing on top of a three foot wave scared me, When six hours of trying plus six rides equaled ultimate success, When I called myself “Queen Nose Dive of the Clan Flounder About” because that’s who I was. O’ how I miss that first year of kookiness… When wiping out on a big wave counted as surfing, When just making it out in a hurricane swell meant the world was a better place, When nothing felt more beautiful than my kook-poop-stance going left…again…for some unknown reason. O’ how I miss the kookiness… When “Wooooowhoooo”s flowed freely from me, When nothing about me was embarrassed. When I didn’t even know what kook meant. O’ to be a kook again. By: Big White Water
I think that you'd really like the poetry of J. Robinson Jeffers. He lived near the turn of the 20th century and built by hand his own stone house on a hillside overlooking the Pacific in Carmel, CA. Here's one of my favorites: NOVEMBER SURF Some lucky day each November great waves awake and are drawn Like smoking mountains bright from the west And come and cover the cliff with white violent cleanness: then suddenly The old granite forgets half a year’s filth: The orange-peel, egg-shells, papers, pieces of clothing, the clots Of dung in corners of the rock, and used Sheaths that make light love safe in the evenings: all the droppings of the summer Idlers washed off in a winter ecstasy: I think this cumbered continent envies its cliff then…. But all seasons The earth, in her childlike prophetic sleep, Keeps dreaming of the bath of a storm that prepares up the long coast Of the future to scour more than her sea-lines: The cities gone down, the people fewer and the hawks more numerous, The rivers mouth to source pure; when the two-footed Mammal, being someways one of the nobler animals, regains The dignity of room, the value of rareness.
The flat spell is causing a creative explosion! I learned to play the drums last week..... It's like George Costanza when he stopped having sex. He became a genius.
PhiloSurfer......thanks for the share.....very nice. ChavezY........it was yesterday while I was trying to get my first waves of this new year that I composed that poem in my minds eye.....paddle, paddle, paddle, miss it....try again, miss it again.....struggle for an hour and finally except the simple joy of taking the white water. I'm still a kook, it's just that I know it now. The flat spell always result in depression poems :/........my favorite poems come form from struggle.
haha... There are perhaps 2 outcomes of terrible flat spells that are evident through the Swellinfo forums. 1) An array of negative forum threads, and 2) an outlet of creative... Flat spells definitely seem to cause change in behavior.
sittin on the beach starin at the sand lookin for a babe with a beer in my hand watchin the local surfers rip up the waves when im really only lookin for a couple of babes
Ode to the Sea Pablo Neruda Here on the island the sea and so much sea overflowing, relentless, it says yes, then no, then no, no, no, then yes, in blue, in foam, with gallops, it says no, again no. It cannot stay still, my name is sea, it repeats while slamming against rocks but unable to convince rocks, then with seven green tongues of seven green dogs, of seven green tigers, of seven green seas, it smothers rocks, kisses rocks, drenches rocks and slamming its chest, repeats its name. O sea, you declare yourself, O comrade ocean, don’t waste time and water, don’t beat yourself up, help us, we are lowly fishermen, men of the shore, we’re cold and hungry and you’re the enemy, don’t slam so hard, don’t scream like that, open your green trunk and give all of us on our hands your silver gifts: fish every day. Here in each house, we all crave it whether it’s of silver, crystal or moonlight, spawn for the poor kitchens on earth. Don’t hoard it, you miser, coldly rushing like wet lightning beneath your waves. Come, now, open yourself and leave it near our hands, help us, ocean, deep green father, end one day our earthly poverty. Let us harvest your lives’ endless plantation, your wheat and eggs, your oxes, your metals, the wet splendor and submerged fruits. Father sea, we know already what you are called, all the seagulls circulate your name on the beaches: now, behave yourself, don’t shake you mane, don’t threaten anyone, don’t smash against the sky your beautiful teeth, ignore for a moment your glorious history, give to every man, to every woman and to every child, a fish large or small every day. Go out to every street in the world and distribute fish and then scream, scream so all the working poor could hear you, so they could say, sticking their heads into the mine: “Here comes the old man sea to distribute fish.” And they’ll go back down into the darkness, smiling, and on the streets and in the forests, men and the earth will smile an oceanic smile. But if you don’t want it, if you don’t care for it, then wait, wait for us, we must worry, first we must try to solve and straighten out human affairs, the biggest problems first, then all the others, and then we’ll enter you, we’ll chop the waves with a knife made of fire, on an electric horse leaping over foam, singing we’ll sink until we touch the bottom of your guts, an atomic thread will guard your shank, we’ll plant in your deep garden trees of cement and steel, we’ll tie your hands and feet, on your skin man will walk, spitting, yanking in bunches, building armatures, mounting and taming you to dominate your spirit. All this will occur when us men have straighten out our problem, the big, the big problem. We’ll slowly solve everything: we’ll force you, sea, we’ll force you, earth perform miracles, because in our very selves, in the struggle, is fish, is bread, is the miracle. Neruda was the man. The sea has been saying an awful lot of 'no' these days. Ready for a three day head high 'yes'.