Its been super fun the last 3 days here in MA/NH. Got some real good ones the past mornings and afternoons. The surf has had some real good power/push to it as well. Not like that summer mush we get. Its been breaking real hard in a lot of spots I like to surf, and absolutely detonating when they break on the inside sections. Get caught in the wrong spot and it was either pulling you over or pushing you down to the bottom. It feels good to have some surf like that again. I like to put myself into some hairy situations and really push my ability. Lately been trying to always hit the closeouts with a good whack or pull into a closeout barrel and see how far I can go. Also really trying to take off one rights that scare me as thats my biggest weakness(i'm goofy). I love a fat backside hack, but taking off and getting there is sometimes a challenge. Not for nothing, some of you may have heard our beloved Plum Island in Ma. has been taking it on the head all winter. However, the debris is gone and the sand bars and jetties are making for some awesome breaks this year. Hoping it holds up all summer. The storms did destroy one awesome wave they had on the island next to this one jetty. It pushed tons of sand back in on one side and completely ruined this cool right they had.
I noticed that it's either the really young groms and the much older guys 30+ y/o who are just starting to learn that just love being in the water, eating it, and doing it over and over, are the ones who have fun. Maybe they're vacationing and they're from some landlocked area and are just stoked to be in the ocean. The late teens and early twenties dudes are the ones who seem to want to prove something and have the negative attitude. They tend to yell and run their mouths in the line-up when they're not catching anything.
So when do you want to get together and show our balls to a bunch of Hindus again? That testicle touching session we had the other night was EPIC by the way! I'll catch you on the secret outside reef that only you and I know about! Woo!
Remember that crazy storm we had Friday night? Not really related to this thread or surfing, but I had a pretty close call that night. We had all the lights off, listening to some Panic while enjoying the beauty of the thunderstorm over the ocean. 11:45pm. I heard a loud bang or two - thinking it was the thunder, I didn't think much of it. A bolt of lightening struck, lighting up the sky. My girlfriend yells "there's someone on the porch." Another bolt struck and we both saw a dark silhouette of a man staring right at us. I got up, flipped on the lights, grabbed my gun and ran out the door. I could hear him running down my steps & I knew that I was not going to catch him, so I just called the cops. Winter/spring is a high time for crime, as most ocean homes are rentals and what not. I knew my house was safe, but I was worried about my neighbors' unattended homes. I spent Saturday morning following up with the cops, who seemed to think it was a homeless dude trying to get out of the rain, even though my shed's lock had cut marks & the handle was completely broken off. Then I spent the rest of my 4/20 designing my next Eavey longboard, so it all worked out. The brew was flowing and all was swell. Be safe out there & let's make this world a better place.
I am going to name my new punk trio "Hindus in Bikinis". That is a completely awesome turn of phrase. But i guess you cant shred in the winter (no bikinis) or in christian or muslim dominated countries though. Does Sri Lanka produce house sized drops? A bad day of surfing is good and a good day keeps you rolling happy for days. And I am in the 30+ range that is stoked to be out there. I have had a few line up regulars comment about how they like having some of my kind out there to remind them that its supposed to be fun. Old guys rule!
Dude, you got to relax, man. First of all, it is impossible to "ruin" a Swellinfo thread. Yeah, they really aren't that important. Isn't there a blocking feature on here if someone can't stand somebody else's posts? Maybe then you should block NJShredmachine, but I think you can't wait to see what he says next. That's a common problem on here. Like, my old detractors were actually my biggest fans. They just didn't realize it. If any of y'alls don't like somebody, suck it up. They have just as much right to be here as you. This isn't The Newport Yacht Club. Hey a Rhode Island reference...go figure..... And besides, NJShredmachine doesn't post long- winded messages. He shoots y'all a line or two, and no matter what people say about him THEY CONSTANTLY KEEP TALKING ABOUT HIM. So obviously he's doing something right? The bench press thing, man, the cats on here all love it. It gets mentioned daily. Hey Erock, I know this is a "surfing" thread but can we discuss Margaret Thatcher's death and her influence on Great Britian here? HA HA. No? Awwwww shucks. Surfing fun, man. I like donkey donkey donkey waves of grassy tubular(that's Japanese for youse). Just saw the first summer types out yesterday. Yeah, the water is still hovering around 48-50. They had the rubber, but still had that summer vibe. I don't know. I've seen 7 people out at my spot since Oct. 20, 2012. Yeah, that's it. Yeah tuck into that one Ocean City, NJ. So I get quesy when I see people. Shoot my sandbars crapped-out in late January and I had to hit Ocean City for a month. Oh man, it was not good. They all love packing up together though. God love 'em.
Thanks, man. It was seriously something out of a horror movie. Before I busted out the door (gun blazing), I looked out my window to make sure the figure wasn't on on my porch. What did I see? Wet footprints. The silhouette was obviously enough, but the wet footprints definitely freaked me out. I have tourist gates on my stairwells and "No Tresspassing" signs posted, so the trespasser is entering at their own risk.
SJB!!!!! Billlll!!!! It's great to have you back- this forum is not what it was- but you make me laugh and that's good! When are we surfing that point in camden??? I hardly check this out anymore - but excited that your back! I can't wait for the Summer Pros!!! So- you spotted a few?? And they had rubber??? I thought they where too cool for rubber! Surfing for me is all about having fun ... And getting that next barrel lol I agree with the age and bigger thing- seems like beginners have the most fun.. It's not a competition so why not trade waves and have a few laughs instead of being a Summer Pro? Why do you gotta prove yourself to the other guy? Push your own limits
Yo Jesus !! I can neither confirm nor deny any correlation between Paddington Jetty Bear and South Jetty Bill. All I know is that I hang around London train stations and eat marmelade sandwiches......just Google "Paddington Bear" to check my bio. Walkingonh2o(Jesus) I hope things have been well for you. I hope Sandy didn't truck your life up too much. DO you guys want to hear about hard times? My spot was only accesible, like twenty blocks away, for two months. I had to walk twenty blocks to get there. I know....I know. Don't cry for me Argentina. A whole nature reserve area, some 200 yards, was completely flooded with waist high water. Yucky, dirty, trashy water. I wasn't trudging through that. Anyways, glad to hear from you Jesus. Keep performing miracles, man.
Right on brother we are all good here! Bummer about your spot - well at least the SP would not trudge through that mess!!! What about the kayak?
The ones having the most fun of all are always those little bug-eyed groms. Just oozing stoke... My favorite is watching one tuck themselves just under the pitching lip, then stand straight up and claim it like they were riding the foam ball for 30 yards!
May have just woke up the neighbors with the laughter from this one, primed of course with the precursor posts. Quality stuff.
Tomorrow (well, today at this point) will be my 11th consecutive day in the water and I'm at the 2.5 month mark for being in the game. Also in the low 30s crowd. I will second the previous posts about the fun factor coming from having Mom kick me in the balls (sometimes literally with a wave, board, conch shell, etc.) repeatedly as I earnestly ask for another, harder boot to the bajoules. On Thursday, I was out paddling for 7 hours and with how hard, fast, and constant the 6-8 footers were cranking in MA, my time spent sitting in a lineup was zilch. It was 420 minutes across 4 sessions of eating white to the grill, duck diving, paddling with voracity, and a few dozen takeoffs. If the period were longer or the waves had less power, I wouldn't have spent 96% of the day getting smacked in the face and sprint paddling. Then again, I wouldn't have burned 2 lbs of fat during my sleep (true story) or been near as grateful for every last drop over the top even when it was nose first, feet last over the falls. What was great about Weds-Friday this week in MA was the waves were so damn powerful that if you were anywhere close to proper takeoff spot and timing you'd be hoisted to the heavens. For me, that meant 1:1 ratio of fine rides and fine spills. I've immersed myself fully in anything I've ever put on my plate, it's just who I am. But never have I engaged in something that was so stimulating on so many levels every second of the experience. Every wave I catch, there's 3 things I did that made it possible. Every one I miss, it's clear to me the 1 thing that was missing and needs to be focused on next. You hear people talk about "time in the water" as the key to progress and development. To me, that is quite true, though it's more the sum total of "time spent being in the moment while in the water" that not only expedites your skills, but brings you the true joy of every experiential morsel involved. Crap, getting out at 5:45am on Thursday entailed me making my own wax since I'd have slid off my board and the shop wasn't open at the time. There's no chance the shredded paraffin, vasoline, and hair pommade (shot in the dark for stickiness) concoction I melted together was as good as the real stuff, but it helped and was yet another angle of enjoyment and appreciation of all of this. After blessing it with the best ride of my brief career on the last run of the day Thursday, I traded my 7-4 funboard to a kid nearby for his 6-6 fish. Not sure which of us were more stoked to be receiving the board from the other, but it was love at first ride Friday night when I caught the first wave I attempted with the new stick and even turned frontside at the bottom without thinking just because the board felt so good (for some reason backside turns are natural to my goofy stance, probably from snowboarding). Said session was meant to last only 1 hour to try out the new stick but 2.5 hours later, there was still 5 of us chasing runs at 8:30pm when it was pitch an hour post-sunset thanks to the help of the full moon. I'd agree that time stops on the drop in and down the line, but time stopped as soon as I threw the suit on for the first time. Not about to check my watch anytime soon either.
This time of year I wear chinstrap hood, barely know its on. I highly reccomend investing in one, they last forever.
You nailed it Spicoli. The funny thing is, surfing for nearly my entire life and in my 40s, I have just about the Same enthusiam and stoke. It had lessened for a while in my 30s but has been back big time the last 5-6 years
That's true commitment, SouthJetty and your right about the ShredMachine, he has definitely provided much laughter.
Dude, I would go to town meetings and these people would be crying about their houses being damaged and shoot, and I'd just lose it. "SHUT UP !!!! I CAN"T GET TO THE JETTY, YOU MORONS !!!! I GOTTA FRIGGIN PARK TWENTY FRIGGIN BLOCKS NORTH AND WALK !!!! WELL, OK, MY CHAFUER HAS TO PARK TWENTY BLOCKS AWAY, DAMN GOVERNMENT STILL WON'T LET ME DRIVE !! AND YOU PEOPLE ARE COMPLAINING ABOUT SOME DAMAGE TO YOUR HOUSES !!!" Koki, I just don't understand people.... SIDE NOTE: For the slow ones out there. The above was for entertainment value only. I don't compare the loss of peoples' property to my "gone a walkaboot" to get to my favorite jetty. Man, I'm covering my bases these days. And HEY ZUES, I just read The Boston Bombing thread and and Boston Bombers ID things and I'd would have been sent to SWELLINFO PRISON for that a year ago. The end is coming....The end is coming....... Be cool, Koki. Watch out for mosquitoes and flies.
This may sound trite, cheesy or whatever, but being able to get out on the water on my board makes a day special. Even when things suck at work. I've only been at this for 8 months. At times this past winter, sitting out there by myself in 42 degree water, gray sky, gray water, head aching and ears ringing from the last dunking, I'd sort of ask myself, "Why is a 57 year old guy out here doing this sh**?" I can't adequately explain it other than I just like to do it. I love the salt water. The smells of the ocean, neoprene, and surf wax. I was out off VA Beach today for a couple hours. Sunny, beautiful day. Water felt like 60. Made me think back to those winter sessions. Surf was only 2-3 foot, but I had the most and best rides since I started this... I was going to say sport, but it's become more like a lifestyle. This was after experiencing a 2-week slump when I couldn't seem to do anything right when I went out. I used to say that I wish I had started surfing when I was younger. Now I 'm grateful just to be able to be doing it. Stayin' thirsty.
