Reading the break

RIer - I'm on a 6-1, a 6-6, and a 7-0. I use the 6-6 most often as it's a fish and most versatile for these ever-changing, less than utopian conditions. I agree getting off the board and back on is to generally be avoided in the short period. When I was turtle rolling last night I was wrapping my arms around the underside of the board as if to hug it and then turning quickly to one side capsizing myself and continuing that turn underwater for a full revolution where I come right side up with chest on the board in paddle position and ready to get further out before the next comes. I was giving a few kicks under water as well and it seemed to help.

To those saying I'm over-thinking it, this reflection is being done when I'm back home and in between sessions or at night. When I'm out there for my 1-3 hour sessions, I may have a simple plan for the day, but the time is largely spent in the moment, with senses wide open, giving full effort and enjoying the heck out of it. I'm an analytical athlete that has found success being that way. It's who I am, and don't worry, I'm having a blast.

I filmed last night's session putting the cam on a bench on the boardwalk and zooming it in on the other couple guys I joined up with. Just reviewed the film now and it showed me several things that I would have no way of knowing. Looks like my takeoffs are generally good and quick and explosive, yet need to be less of a hop and more of a smooth transition to my feet since the hopping factor appears to lift my nose up out of the water and force me to fall off the back of the wave even if I stay on the board. Also, I saw several reps where I got the takeoff and drop, yet turned right when I should've gone left to stay in the face. Trying to then see what visual indicators were there that would've shown me that but I missed. And when I'm done assessing my takeoff reps, I have 45 minutes of waves breaking that I can study to learn even more about that break I was at and how it behaves at that given tide, wind, etc. Two birds with one stone.

Thanks again for the helpful responses guys.

 

Ha! You posted this while I was just posting my last one explaining that this is just what I did and that it was working well. Funny you mention the kayak analogy as that's exactly what came to mind. You're right, it is one smooth movement when done properly. I like it because you are finessing your body under/around the force of the wave and not really opposing it in any way. With the tonnage and psi that wave contains, I'd think we want to resist as little of it as possible. It works really well for me when some heavy whitewater already broke and is coming at me hard. I'm still going with the duckdive when passing through the unbroken or about to break face.

So for my knowledge, this is a Hawaiian Roll and not a Turtle Roll? They make those at sushi joints?

Thanks Gaffer. Again, these are the responses I'm looking for - to either confirm what I'm doing is correct or incorrect, and how/what to modify if needed.

 

Thanks KG. These were the first videos I watched when starting out, especially this one. These guys are excellent coaches/teachers in many ways. I am getting there steadily, and doing more and more of what they list and illustrate, though still need to do more of it and do it more consistently. Wish these guys put out material every day of the week.

 

KG - I just watched it again thanks to you. It's been a solid two months since the last time I watched it (made sure to look at all of them 5-10x each at the beginning of it all) and it is very helpful to revisit and see how many of their benchmarks I am meeting. Also, now having much further understanding of several components they explain that made sense hearing and seeing before I ever tried it out, I can really absorb their points now that I've seen and felt the situations many dozen times. I use their "spot X" phrase all the time and my experienced buds that I ride with at times have started to call it that as well because it's a great descriptor of the elusive, yet necessary takeoff spot.

Have you watched the rest of their series? The explanation of tides is a great one. They throw in some comedy in between tons of quality content that is comprehensible to most all audiences. That's a really good resource and those guys have terrific coaching pedigree.

 

I'm starting to think that errbuddy on here doesn't just have surfer's ear, but surfer's eye as well. Not sure how many times I have to reiterate my enjoyment of it. You's guys (Masshole vernacular!) could benefit from a little Descartes in you and realize the existence of other thinking minds and perceptions. Can't say I've ever met anyone else that calls the same things "fun" that I do. It's awful sweet of you guys to care for my life satisfaction factor so dearly, but please, leave its measure of fulfillment up to me. The best part is that I'm not pushing any of my voodoo math and science on you guys. Get yours any way you like.

People often ridicule what they don't understand and the history of mankind has many examples of this.

As for why I surf, if you don't see that by my earliest posts here, we may have a loss of translation. I'll spare you the genuine, no telling how many damn words it will be answer and offer up a shorter, lighter alternative: for the rad gear, stacked babes, sick BA image, and of course to disrupt the lineup brahhhhhhhh!!

 

I saw they offer that and wondered how it was. Sounds like it could be a worthwhile and enjoyable investment.

That's the indicator of a master coach - one that gives their pupils the tools for survival and self-direction towards eventual and perpetual success. I can tell that right away from their videos.

 

Brek, that already crossed my mind. Criticism is the seed of motivation for further growth. I welcome it. It's always good to have others "proofread" your work. Especially when those others doing the proofing are far more fluent than the author. If you're inclined, drop me a PM with your email and I'll send over some clips once they're uploaded. If not, no prob.