As I learn more about ocean hydrodynamics both on the water and in the academic sense, there are more and more things I notice during my sessions. I've had some sessions lately that would've otherwise been awesome conditions if not for a second swell coming in from another direction. Last night, I could see that the waves intermittently had a much difference appearance on an "every other" basis. The one swell had crests and decent faces emerging that were clearly different from the others that had rounded tops and reform-like appearance. Just as we are supposed to hunt down the takeoff zone and ideal position in a wave, I noticed something else to scout out and certain waves that were not worth taking. What are other visuals you guys look for to seek out or avoid in wave selection and/or positioning?
second and third swells from other directions can create sweet bowls, especially when they are of similar size. Fast, hollow bowls.
really only experance will help you with that one. I could tell you one thing, then next thing I know your paddeling into a closeout... you will learn. Get in the water. Put in your time. Look at everything. everything! here is a hint- since I would like to help you- sometimes the water color will tell you if your sitting in the right spot... if your at the peak of the sand... shallow or deep... could someone spell check my reply???
Yup, logging that time every day. Got 4:45am til 7:15am today then going back for more at least once again today since its 88 and sunny and if there's not excitement to be seen on the water there sure as hell will be in the sand. I do look at everything and have learned that I've got to observe it all, especially since my primary beach break changes by the minute. Very inconsistent but it's great adaptation and I saw that when I hit up a consistent and repetitive break in NH last weekend and it seemed too easy to predict. Can you elaborate on the color of the water? Those are the types of things I've noticed.
Before I went on surf forums, I had a blast surfing. I didn't know what the waves looked like until I got there. I didn't care if if the man was "green". I had fun. We also didn't consider it a sport, we drank a beer on the beach before we paddled out, etc...
You should probably stop reading surf forums then if it brings you down. Either that or just don't read my morose posts when you see a thread initiated by me. I had a blast this morning for 2.5 hours of dawn patrol with 3 buds and things got even better when I got digits from a looker chick that was floating on a board near me when my friends had to go to work and I stayed out later. Will also enjoy a few cold ones in the sand prior to the afternoon session today on a perfect beach day and hottest day of the year do far. Yeah, I have fun surfing at dawn, drinking beer on the beach, meeting new chicks in the water, and sucking less each day at physical/athletic (is that okay to classify surfing as?) endeavors due to full commitment and effort. Actually, those are all a $hitload of fun to me.
this is really corny but, If you think of the ocean like you think of music, it has rhythms. when you go out in the junk you can have wind swells and smaller ground swells and combinations of the the two. then mix in the tidal push and rips. get in the middle of it find the back beat and boogie.
Yeah, but what does he do for a living? He allegedly surfs 6 hours a day and has time to be on these boards nonstop writing 500 word essays about "surfing."
Apparently, "he" has it together enough to be posted up on a quarter mile of beachfront at the moment surrounded by an unprecedented quantity of co-eds that an observer would think is the result of the Smokeshow Genome Project. That is, while you open that top desk drawer hunched over to pop double your prescribed dose of anti-anxiety meds due to your cubicle coffin. I'll have the decorum and appropriateness not to accept the invite to a **** measuring contest. Rest assured, my boss is a real a-hole but it's a perk of the job that I brush his teeth in the morning, feed him, and he is actually the one typing this message. He happens to both write my paychecks and cash them, too, since he is both the payer and the payee. That arrangement is the product of me staying awake and working to make that happen over the course of several years, while you and the rest of the world sleep at night. On the occasion that someone else issues my paycheck, they would happen to be in the entertainment business, specifically sports, and I'm one of the "clowns" in the "circus" that people come pay to see perform. I won't ask what you do for a living because it matters to me about as much as how many farts Rosie O'Donnell cuts in an average day matters to me. It doesn't. And it wouldn't change what I think or say of you if I did know what corporate entity indentures your servitude. Because after all, this is a surfing forum, and it's all about the fun, brah.
Erroneous on both accounts but there's plenty of cameltoe among these collegian & post-collegian phillies flocking the shore. Spring Break 2013 Masshole style. Oh wait, my hedonia was just disrupted by the lone pair of civil-unioned, crew cut fatties rubbing 6,000SPF on their respective back fat. Gotta say the people listening is amazing. Idiocracy script for sure. If I had any mental hard drive I've transcribe it for you guys.
Now THAT'S something. Got to take notice to such supernatural flatulence complimented by the orbital defecation. I recant prior claim and definitely care about this empirical data far, far more than the occupation/ovulation of [insert forgettable idiot forum denizen's name here].
boston buoy 1.3 @ 6. please end the suspense and tell us what kind of sports entertainment you engage in. (STOMP is not sports entertainment)
Damn I gots to go to the book depository and check me out a The Sore Us to learn some of them there words Spicoli is lyricating.