Second and third swells

It sucks dude, it really does...and I feel for ya cuz it really sucks seeing something you love get exploited...I love surfing too, but when I see the types you're talking about I'm really glad I love the sponge so much.

 

Shoulda been here yesterday brah

 

LOL! I bet you are a shredder and love the antichrist Dave Matthews.

 

Yup, elated you're back too.

You know it was really great in 2007.

 

Probably was better than all the non-surfers on the site now. Wait there were poseur surfers on the site in 2007. I stand corrected. Stand up straight as a pole and surf, shredder. It's all in the hips. It's all in the hips. Bend those knees happy gilmore. You are such a lady's man, lmao! toolbag

 

Obviously, its not a wave unless your are surfing a 23 foot New Jersey Double-Overheader.

Here is what you will deal with...

Once upon a time, I was born. I grew up inland in the Confederate capital. Despite all that one can say about the place, there were kids all over the place decked out in surf gear. I refused to (and somewhat regret) ever surf. It made no sense to me that one could be a surfer and live 2 hours from the coast and do it maybe once a month except when they went to their parent's beach house in the OBX in the summer. There were Billabong shirts galore and stories of shreddin all day every day.

I am no saint, but that just screamed kook to me. Screw it, I skated. A lot of folks were too cool for that because they are surfers. They were in the element. They got shacked more than a hobo.

I move to the beach. I get a call. A buddy of mine tells me he is coming to visit. He brings his cokehead of a girlfriend with him. She is so gonna surf! That day, Surfline reports that there are 5-8 foot waves at the Jetty. She is going out there because there are finally waves in VB. I ask her if she has before. She says yes. She has a lot of experience running, playing field hockey and wake surfing. A lot of people from back home surf. We have been surfing just about every day back home.

I'm going to stop it there. The point is everyone "surfs" now. One could reply, I like the water. Another will say I SURF! Have fun this summer. A lot of folks will be chasing Mavricks.

 

Emass, one of the joys of surfing is turning off the analytical parts of the mind and just be in a state of flow. Let yourself learn to surf just by being there and feeling the waves. It's like a baby learning to walk. He doesn't know how he did it, nor does he think about it and plan it out. Sometimes super bright people can be their own worst enemy when learning something where the thinking is more intuitive.

 

Try to surf more like Laird, just copy him... everything he does... everything he is... be Laird.