I took it out for a paddle but didn't catch a wave. It took a couple paddles to get going. It really wasn't the day for this board. There weren't any long boarders out and the washout generally isn't a longboard spot either. The place was crowded because it was 12 on a Saturday plus the wahine classic was going on. Steve didn't have the leash on either so I was pretty hesitant to take a late drop or wipe out. Bottom line... No ride report yet but Steve and the board are legit.
Yeah, my prediction was that the board would have a rough time in normal SC swell. Much of the time, when it is above waist high, it is really choppy (like this weekend). I had my fun shape out yesterday, but wished I had the egg.
Agreed. Steve, be careful with the no leash thing. It is technically illegal on Folly, and the cops get bored sometimes.
I'm kinda bummed Steve is real now. I was sure he was made up. Clemson, did he talk to you about his board at all? I'm guessing he had to, did he seem disappointed or stoked about it? If you had trouble on it I wonder if he's kinda disappointed he put all that effort into making something that isn't suited for east coast surf. I mean, I respect the guy that he put all that work into making a wooden surfboard that he doesn't think it worth $1.47 million dollars, but it's gotta be at least a little frustrating that he can't ride it more often or have as much fun on it as a shorter, wider board like a funboard/fish/mini simmons.
Sometimes it's about the journey not the destination. There will be some days when this board will be able to perform as intended. The leash is a necessary evil for everyone's safety including the board's. Roy gave the perfect explanation for these types of boards in his video. A little after the 10 minute mark, he's talking about people who travel to find the best surf. He doesn't buy into that rather he tries to make the board for the wave. His boards and designs are made specifically for the NZ waves he rides. As far as Steve and his board goes, I assure you he didn't make the board for anyone other than himself and it is very well crafted. If he wants to build another shape I am sure he's got the skills to do it.
I would love to see him build a more classical LB style wooden board with the same craftsmanship. It would be nice to see something so attractive also surf well in our local waves. "He doesn't buy into that rather he tries to make the board for the wave." That is why I believe he should stop claiming his boards work in all conditions. The NZ waves seem to have long duration, the faces are not steep, and they seem to have consistent waist to head high swell. I have no doubt the board works well in those conditions.
I have to agree with this. Look at the board. It is an overgrown step up shape backwards. Put the fin on the other end.
I think you may be confused, mine's the short one. (it's nearly impossible to say that and still feel manly)
Actually that is incorrect and can't be deduced from what I said. I make boards to be as versatile as possible, so that they do well in a huge range of conditions. I've ridden them in waves up to 4x overhead countless times, and waves of many different shapes including the tubular variety all the way down to 6 second period onshore slop.
Hey Steve, can you please just come out and tell everybody you pulled a fast one and are actually a mythical internet creature made up by Roy, this would be much more entertaining if you could do that. Clemson has your back, so don't worry, we all know you're "legit", but it sure would make for a better story if you could do this one favor. For the sake of entertainment? Or better yet, can you please PLEASE wear an orange jumpsuit, white space helmet, and a fake gnome beard on your next voyage and have Clemson snap some action photos of you navigating down the line on that bad boy?
See.... this is where you cause problems for yourself roy. its pretty obvious your board is not made for waves like pipeline or other hollow fast surf. If I am wrong, I would like to see the video of the board making a barrel. Otherwise its just as Clemson said... your board is good for that wave/break you surf in nz.
An illogical deduction. I've been riding my designs for 20 years and have tested them in a huge range of conditions. For many years I'd go out on them in almost every surfable day regardless of size, shape or wind direction, sometimes in waves so small that no one else was out, sometimes in waves so big and stormy that no one else was out. ... in fact when conditions are difficult for example windy and ragged a board like the Ghost 12 has its advantage increased. It is truly what I call a 'Universal surfboard'. Lately I've been picking photogenic conditions i.e. sunny,with reasonably long period, light winds or offshores, and within a certain size range. You'll notice that picking such conditions means that I'm only getting in the water occasionally rather than nearly every day as I used to. This is partly due to my relocation inland, getting the most attractive conditions for video, and the fact that my surfing days are now family events, I choose days which are safe and fun for small children. .
Which board? The shapes I use are inherently suited to hollow waves and perform superbly in hollow waves. I've been tubed many times on them in the past, whether you believe this or not is of no consequence, as the fact of the matter can't be changed. .