In the 70s, I used to have access to Dang Neck (cause we Don't talk that way around here.) there'd be waves when flat everywhere else. I remember the water was always rust colored. In the mid 80's I got a job working on barracks on the beach. I'd get there early and catch a few waves before work. got fired for losing track of time and showing up late. the old, "next wave in for sure this time" will do that. the water was a lighter brown then.
I was able to put in a couple nice, lunchtime sessions there Wed and Thurs. It was only knee to thigh high but still fun. Came as a surprise, because it's been flat or the 1 ft slop for over 2 weeks. Was getting frustrating. Had considered going back to kayaking or taking up SUPing. I've only been surfing since last Aug but am already familiar with the "I'll come in after the next ride", racing back for a meeting with a wet beard and no socks or sneaking back to the office a little late. I'm 57, should know better, and acting like a kid!
priceless thread..good for some laughs on a Friday..mine is a little emabarassing, swung my board around to catch a wave and the shadow of my board freeked me out since it appeared something had just swam underneath me! hair stood up on the back of my neck I was freaked out for a few seconds, missed the wave and looked over at my friend and laughed it off.. croatan, spring of 2012, tiger shark two of 'em gave me the stink eye and I was out of the water, confirmed...out
funny this thread is up... I JUST HEARD there was a great white spotting in Sea Girt/ Spring Lake area- the beaches are closed! This could be hearsay... i heard it from someone else... can someone confirm this?? Im serious- no joke here...
Read this thread: http://www.swellinfo.com/forum/showthread.php?19395-Great-White-spotted-off-of-Belmar-Manasquan
About 6 months ago I was surfing alone early in the morning(bad start already I know) next to the jetty in Surfside and I seen shark pop on some mullet about 100 ft from me. I caught a right then was bobbing waiting for the next set, and the shark appeared and starting circling me. I was 300 yards offshore so land wasnt an option. I got my body completely on my shortboard and starting praying. Another set came through and caught another right. Rode it for 50 to 100 yards, and bobbing in the water, I was looking like a crack head looking for cops, then the shark appeared behind me coming straight at me and pushing water. My heart sank because I know this is what they do before they attack. The fin coming right at me fast then it went under water about 5ft in front of me. Again getting my limbs out of the water, another set thank god. I finally rode this wave to the beach. Frantically running on the water to exit. My heart was pounding and this surfer from Florida asked "whats wrong?" I told him and his response was " oh man dont stress, sharks are the water dogs, and they see you before you see them, so if the shark wanted you he would of got you!"
He's right, if he did want you, he would have had you. Nothing you really could have done to avoid it if he decided you were lunch.