Best part of the ride

I hunt barrels.

The second best imo is laying down a vicious full-rail carve and/or a big snap in the pocket to air drop.

 

The drop for sure, nothing like it

 

the instant you feel the wave is moving you, thats the best part.

 

+ 1000 for each of the last two posts.

All I want to do is fly. Feel weightless and free. That and knowing I'm either about to lift to the heavens and sky dive back down or get thrown in a colossal human washing machine. I enjoy both to a nearly equal level.

I've got a long way to go in development, skill and experience and definitely am stoked to progress eventually to shredding. However, my preference will be big wave riding as that's the uptime takeoff and drop-in.

Nothing like it, brah. Drop-in til you die.

 

I also thoroughly enjoy the elation of pulling up to see waves cranking, then sprinting to the water in a maniacal cackling laughter.

 

Like being shot out of a cannon

 

Emass, you should wear a too-too. It will add to the feelings you describe, I promise.

 

Sitting waaaaaaay outside as the kooks on the inside watch as I pick off the best wave of every set.

lol.

 

The drop is my favorite, also recovering from a late drop and still having the speed to get to where you wanna be.

 

I guess there are some places where you can just assume the wave is gonna break perfectly or close to it. The places I surf in NJ are not them. So, for me, there is nothing better than making the drop and looking down the line and seeing a little real estate to play with as the wave lines up just right.

 

If you don't think it's getting shacked then you aint been shacked

 

E - I'd love to borrow one of your many TUTUS, as I'm told you have a California walk-in closet full of those, stilettos and pumps, sundresses, garter belts and other transgender garb. You like dressing in drag; I like drag racing. I'm hooked on surfing; You're hooked on phonics.

Side note: Get your ducks in a row if you're trying to slam someone (i.e. what's a "too-too"?). Otherwise, it's akin to punching yourself in the face, pantsing yourself in public, or giving yourself a swirly in a toilet. If that's your bag, then by all means, do you, brah. Do you.

 

True that. I can imagine that would be the case. I'm still early anticipating my first trip to the green room, which won't be tomorrow, but not too far off if I can help it. Can't yet call an experience utopian prior to actually experiencing it.

 

10 months of surfing under my belt and a long way to go. But the first time I rode a wave face to face and could reach out and touch that smooth moving unstoppable force as I went down the line.... I found what I had been looking for my whole life.

 

IDK man, been shacked before, not a 23 footer or anything, but none-the-less got in and it was fun, but the feeling of the drop seems to do it for me, although, EVERYTHING about the ride is the best part to perfectly honest, at no point would I say, "man that part of the wave sucked"

 

My bad, didn't spell check the ballet accoutrements. I will openly admit I don't know a whole lot about ballet--definitely not nearly as much as you. BTW, the next time you attempt to "slam" someone else's phonics, make sure to brush up on semi-colon use first....


Tell me again about "pantsing oneself in public." It sounds like you're experienced...

 

Yeah, but you sure are trying hard.... Tiny dancer.

 

Learn me good on the art of the semi-colon, brah. When I learned its use during my extensive home schooling, GED prep and night school ESL class it was made clear to me that the appropriate usage for it is linkage of independent clauses that compare or contrast one another, and without use of a conjunction. In my abysmal experience with words, phrases and grammar, I've thought the semi-colon to be an elective instrument of poetic license. I learn something new everyday. Thanks brah!!!

Feel free to teach me the ways of the semi-colon since you're quite the Renaissance Man of semis. Word from the women is that you don't need to go all out. Your semi has plenty of motion in the ocean for takeoff and shotting their piers.

Couldn't tell ya bouts the auto-pantsing in public. I like to push the envelope and go sans pants, yet with a shirt and tie.

Looks like you and I have center stage since the SUP/PB&J duel went the way of Rocky/Apollo Creed. We can go a few rounds if you'd like. But I ain't down to hug it out after unless you first rid yourself of that semi. Not that there's anything wrong with that (Seinfeld).

 

I hear you... Dropping in on a solid wave and looking down the line at a long wall is a sick rush... But when you see that wall start to pitch, it's gets dark and quiet, then you get spit out! It doesn't get better than that.
Honestly, when the waves are good everything's fun.
To it's their own, to it's their own.