Needless you say more? I definitely would like to get proper-shacked soon though, i'm chompin at the bit thinkin about it
Chastised for arrogance; now berated for humility. You really want to duke it out. Love it! I toy with them until they run out of gas then see I red and flip the switch. Got to finish the fight. There are no decisions in nature. It's always to the death.
Dark and quiet. Hmm...I'd have imagine the angels singing hymnals when you're in the barrel. Either that or Sabotage by the Beastie Boys. Blissful silence. Now THAT is peace and tranquility. Tell me more, brah. It will only push me further towards the sacred shack.
If a person with six toes on one foot (they are out there) hangs ELEVEN, does he instantly ascend to messianic status of Duke's second coming?
Shot? No. Well, possibly. But I need Shredder to teach me the ways of the pier shot before I can shot a human. However, shooting the legs is something I will do at will on the mat. Gotta set it up with some upright stance and head snap your opponent then change level and run through him. I missed the original post by a few weeks on here but gotta say I am fascinated with the term "shotting the pier" and can't help using it all day to unknowing people around me. I love it almost as much as yankee enjoys gratuitously making any and every reference to NJshred. Lord knows I needed a laugh or two last night after that unprecedented tragedy in the Stanley Cup. You just made my day even better, Erock. That was a great post of yours. We are 37x more likely to laugh when in the company of others (opposed to alone) due to laughter being a social bonding mechanism. Another scientific fact is that you're 3,337x more likely to laugh when reading this forum each day. I think in the last 24 hours I've laughed for 8 of them. Shredder's revelation of crotchal discomfort took the cake.
Sounds lovely, Gaff. I've never met the full blown out stand-up barrel, but I've enjoyed many shiny walls. Anyway, a summer or two ago, I spoke to a fair skinned summer pro - one of the "dude, did you just see me stick that 360 air?" More like you simply twisted your waist, but that's just my opinion. Well, he was telling me about his "favorite part of the ride." "I just like taking goofy footed waves and just tickling the wave." He then proceeded to motion backside as if he was "tickling" the wave. I haven't seen him since, but I'll never forget what he said to me. It was one of those Office Space moments, when Lawrence (next door neighbor) learns about having a "case of the Mondays." "No. No, man. ****, no, man. I believe you'd get your ass kicked saying something like that." [video=youtube;WDgq-K2oYLo]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WDgq-K2oYLo[/video] To me, the best part of the ride is knowing that you're riding a wave that only lives once. You are its sole inhabitant; temporarily, that is. Can we talk about semicolons? I love semicolons.
when you make the section give that shoulder hoppin kook a friendly push and watch him eat it as you go by him...
Awesome post, brah. In all ways. Love those "best part of it is that it will never come again" exchanges with random people. While it's "you had to be there" for most anyone you replay it for, I can relate in general (not just surfing) and perhaps others on here as well. Sounds like even if he was way out there, he was pretty stoked and just got to be happy for him. Dude was in the happy barn. I try to live in the happy barn. The impermanence of a single wave is definitely something to consider and appreciate. When I'm ducking diving out the back and I'm not able to ride a wave that looks awesome all of a sudden mid-set because I'm just not prepared to turn and attempt takeoff, or if I opt to go for the following wave in a set because it is expected to be better than the one at hand, I get slightly pissed but then compare it to a chick that walks by and you should've kicked some game to..."there will always be another". That may be true (unless all oceans bottle-neck in expedited fashion like the tideless Mediterranean; will always have wave pools in AZ) but your concept of the wave you are riding "in the moment" of time-stopped elemental experience is how we should treat all rides and I think most of us do. Because it seems we will remember all rides we get for the rest of our lives; perhaps the top level brahs have too many to remember. The only time I don't enjoy the essence of each ride for the greatness it's worth is when I'm not totally focused during the sesh, which does happen but shouldn't. As for punctuation, let's get after the grammar talk!! Love when you guys talk nerdy to me.
That is definitely a sight to be seen so I can only imagine what it feels like. My goal is to do that to a SUP rider when he cuts me off. The desired technique in that event would be a "hadoogan!!" jump double-kick from Mortal Kombat then landing back on your stick and smacking the lip like it ain't no thang. Lofty aspirations, but within the realm of possibility. And insanity. You could always land on HIS board (raft) and then try to rip that 14-footer in any way you can.
I like the feeling of a vertical re-entry...you've already got a ton of speed going up, then to almost go past the lip, then get hung up for a moment, then the re-drop without having to paddle... what a rush! Never towed in but that probably comes close, especially on a macking 23 foot drop. A good barrel (3 plus seconds) is like being in another world. So it's a toss up. Making a gnarly barrel seems to be more of a rush than making a big drop. Especially backside.
the drop, followed by the hand drag on the wave face. Or tucking in back side way low with a rail grab.
While all the treasures mentioned thus far are gifts from above, how about a smokeshow female surfer that looks like perfection in that wetsuit, has a great face in a natural beauty way, AND can ride with some skill? If this serendipitous natural phenomenon presents itself to you on a colder day, I bet you that the increased blood flow will have a positive thermogenic effect for the rest of your session. And the rest of the day.
Exquisite. They (dolphins) appear to be a bit slick and lacking in texture. Would the friction of a wetty plus gloves with tackiness of wax plus more wax and tree resin applied to inner thighs enable you to aerial onto the dolphin's back? Because then I'm pretty sure you could transcend the event exponentially when the two of you shot piers radder than the soon to arrive prodigal son of NJshred once he reaches his prime. I add that last part because word on the Shore is that the Hindu is with child and the ultrasound showed a fetus flexing and doing pushups in the womb.