For sure... sometimes I get so excited I don't know what to do, and just stand there! Ha! I guess what that is for me is the potential of the ride... the anticipation of something great about to happen. I like spring better than summer. Same idea. I guess I separate that feeling from the feeling of satisfaction after a particular ride or event of a ride. Slipping out of a pinching pocket... getting the body english just right to not have a drop of water nick you on the exit after a deep tube is about the most satisfying sensation in surfing for me. A good solid fins out top turn into an air drop is really satisfying, too.
That is the perfect word for it LB Crew, "potential." Taking off and seeing the potential for a special ride. Do love occasionally making it out of the barrel, and the sound as it starts to tuck you in. As for the fin out top turn into an air drop, if I pull that off it will be by accident.
this.... and being waaaaay outside and picking off the best wave of the set.... everytime as the kook confetti flops about on the inside on their patoto chip boards. lol. I can't believe no one else thinks that is the best.
Unless said SUPer rips harder than you do on his raft than you do on your learning stick, then such a thing wouldn't happen and you'd be embarrassed, but it's ok, because these are lessons you must learn my friend. Not that I would ever cut you off, not referring to me here
So true! Or the opposite - sometimes when i'm dropping in and see all of this open wall available for abuse, I get excited to have at it and overdo the bottom turn or pump too hard and just lose balance and blow the wave of the day before it ever started.
all of the above! mine changes each session. my mentality is your best wave is yet to come. havent surfed today but yesterday a bottom turn was the best part of my wave of the day. backside. one of those long sweeping turns, pivot, front hand in water and transitioned just about all my speed to the lip. i really enjoyed it. great thread by the way. im in an awesome mood this morning reading all of these and how stoked and friendly everyone is.
Love looking down the line from a perfect bowled up a-frame. That and seeing the curtain of water and the lip hitting the flats a few feet in front your toe side rail during a layback tube ride. Too bad that's usually right before my hamstring cramps up into a ride ending knot.
Most of these posts have covered it, but i sure do love getting in over my head sometimes. My favorite part of surfing is pushing your limits, heart beating and focusing on breathing and then you just say "f*ck it" and paddle out into surf that has consequence. That feeling of "Oh sh*t" when you see a clean up set rolling in and you just barely make it under the lip. That and getting slammed can sure be fun sometimes too- kamikaze close out barrels!!
You guys love these types of threads, huh. I have heard some people say that the best part of using cocaine is the anticipation during the process of obtaining it, and that instance when it is in one's possession...... You know that feeling when a peak - a perfect friggin head high, groomed, well-shaped, and punchy with a peeling wall(oppossed to the bad type of walling) - comes right to you, epsecially if it's crowded, and it's all yours. Do you know that feeling? Is that feeling of anticipated excitement more of a high than the actual ride? And I'm talking a good wave, one that sits in our poor, east coast memories for life. Man, we are a sad bunch of surfers. So unfortunate. Anyways if the waves are good, and I mean good, every moment from the drop to kick out or that last close-out bash is the best moment. God, I'm so angry right now at people with quality waves. Oh, a suggestion for fairness in a crowded world of limited resources: You guys who prefer the drop - maybe you guys could wear a ........ a what, was that, oh yeah a "tin foil hat" to show you guys are just going to drop in. Then you guys could just drop in straight, and allow others to ride the rest of the wave down-the-line. This is not an insult saying that you guys can't surf or anything like that. Just a mere suggestion since you guys like the drops. The hat will let others know you are just looking for drops...... Oh God, I'm just joking don't get all upset. I like drops, too, for Brigham Young's sakes........ Oh Spicoli and Erock.........please stop insulting each other. Please, at least get along for the kids' sakes. And Spicoli, aka Don King, me and Dawn Patrol SUP were not fighting. Now you boys shake hands and run along now. I'll call you when dinner's ready or "supper" if y'all prefer.
critical speed on the edge of losing it, but the board gives you control throughout the ride, in the most unbelievable, breathtaking moments of purely perfect exhilaration. when your board gets to do what it's meant to do, and you realize you are on the brink of your potential. speed and critical edge success at what should not be possible.
I must be missing the point of this. I'm not talking about me and a SUP going for the same wave, I'm referring to any out of control SUP coming my way and it's certainly happened multiple times this spring. Then again, my post couldn't have been more facetious, and no logical analysis necessary if I'm talking about Mortal Kombat moves on people. A learning stick sounds cool - do you just hold it and gain knowledge through osmosis? C'mon brah, we were just all thoughtfully responding to your inner-most desires and fears and happy to do so. Let's stay in the tree of trust! If not, we'll never be able to go to the Olive Garden again and let our imagination roam about that waitress.
I was not aware of your recent encounters, though i'm sure it has happened, cause it's happened to me as well. The "point" however is just to let you know that some SUPers have more skill on their raft then many others may have on their favorite HPSB, and it wouldn't be wise to treat them as a kook or as someone lower on the food chain simply by seeing what wave riding vehicle they are on, as skill and etiquettte should be the only things that matter. If you are getting cut off though, you might want to ask yourself or others why you think that's happening. Sometimes it's obvious that someone is just learning and some of the more experienced guys may take that as a sign of weakness and "snake" you just because "they can". It happens, seen it first hand, and it's not cool, but it's reality.