Mr. Pink, hope your week is going well. Not sure we've checked in since the weekend. Alas, 10-4 on the "don't ask to come surfing with me unless you really mean it". Then again, for me, a simple way to get rid of being pestered by the ones who won't ever get the bug is for me to actually take them surfing. And in the 8-10. With strong sideshores. Near a jetty. No more nagging.
yes YES yes I can see most of struggles with these types of conversations and I do agree - nice to have shi_tty surfers around to make me look good
the ones I hate are the guys who paddle back and forth snaking waves. I sit and wait for the ones gawd sends me. Gawd hath forsaken me a lot lately.
I decide to do what I think is right, whether that is defending someone or offending someone. Everyone's idea of good surfing is different, to some its just standing up. Have you ever seen someone stand on their first wave? It os a huge moment. It could be argued that feeling is the reason why anyone would try again. It is to me humbling to see inexperienced surfers having more fun than me just trying to get to their feet, really makes me feel like an idiot for being upset I didn't make a move I thought to try. I don't feel bad for you, this is a stupid topic, you sound like a "snob". Mannises thanks you made me smile.
I think it's all about time on the water... 1-3 foot makes me want to go fishing. Punchy waist high waves can be fun, but once it gets real small I switch up the activity.
nobody owes you anything. I love seeing the noobs out there. They make me feel pro. The look of frustration on their faces while they are stuck inside as I catch every wave and blow back out through the breakers is priceless.
Amen to that. I am not an OG surfer who has done this for years. I am only on my second year, and it is honestly a great feeling just to consistently catch waves, stand up with ease, and make a couple turns. The fact that I am doing this with a 6'8" stick in our crappy surf makes me feel even better. It isn't easy being an east coast nooB surfer. At least half of the year, we only see knee high swell. How am I supposed to become a shred machine learning on that crap? I do my best, get out there as much as possible, and have fun. I don't tell anyone I am a surfer, but I do surf.
No shame in that, if that's what makes you happy. I too enjoy fishing, just caught a couple sharky poos this past weekend, nothing to write home about, but it was fun while it lasted. Unhooked the feisty little guy and he tried to bite our faces off as we returned him to the water, then momma shark did a triple lindy out of the water to let us know she's waiting for her pup to return, priceless reaction from my wife, she doesn't dig the those sharp teeth snapping about
Haha ya I guess that method works if you don't mind killing your friends. I actually took a buddy out who had never surfed in a victory at sea day when the buoy was reading in the 7-8 ft range. Bad idea. Real bad idea. He was in good shape so I figured he would be able to keep up. We had driven about an hour from college to my home break so even though it was big I didn't want it to be a wasted trip. And we were going to a point with plenty of deep water for the paddle out. However as soon as I saw him flopping around trying to paddle I knew I had made a mistake. We did a little paddling toward the point before turning around to try and time the shore break and get in. There were a few moments of abort mission and paddle back out and he just wasn't moving fast enough. I managed to get in with relatively little damage. I mean the big faces were jacking up 10 ft and pounding hard into straight sand. I got tossed onto the beach but not too hard. He, on the other hand, got pounded into the sand, swept back out and pounded again. He came up sputtering, panicked and running for shore with the board dragging behind him, tied to his foot. He was breathing hard and ragged for about two minutes solid before he could calm down. We were both lucky. It was stupid. Very stupid. Needless to say he never asked to come surfing again.
We were all noobs at one time. I still consider myself one, so we should do our best to be nice to them. Besides, without them you wouldn't have your local surf shop. If you really think about it, surfers are responsible for creating such a craze around the sport. Pros talk incessantly about progressing the sport, they talk about this magical lifestyle, year-round tans, etc. Of course everyone wants to try it. It seems like you need to surf your whole life to safely refer to yourself as a "surfer". It's like this heightened state of being that few can achieve. I think you call yourself a surfer is you attempt it like you mean it, regardless of time of day and weather. I like to see people try their hardest. This means surf early, surf in crap weather, paddle until your arms go numb, and then after all that get up once or twice and consider it a great day. Do it repeatedly and you're a surfer.
I pushed my 8year old neice into a few East Facing Beach 3 footers this past week and to see the pure elation and excitement (code word -STOKE) was simply awesome. She wanted to start surfing after she saw the movie about the teen girl in HI who lost her arm. My niece, after catching one and paddling back out, shouted out to me "I'M IN THE IMPACT ZONE. IS THERE A SET COMING?????!!!!!" They're like little sponges. Teach em (to surf) right.
wow this is a pretty funny thread.first off,who the hell cares!!!???surfing is for fun,its not a competition.yea theres plenty of ppl out there who don't even know what surfing is,but if somebody is passionate u should give them a break regardless of how they surf.some ppl have respect,most don't.guys cry about SUPers,when some of the greatest legends in the sport ride them,guys like laird,gerry lopez,raimana,etc..after a while of doing the same thing u have to switch it up.is Jamie o brien a kook for paddling 2nd reef pipe on a soft top and doing a board transfer?what can u do for fun after u been barreled 2 million times.most ppl I see surfing around my area,including myself,really have no business trying to talk down on others.i was at the beach one day in the winter in a northface and scarf,winter boots,and I see some kook running toward the crowded peak and I told him hey,its empty right here and the waves are perfect.he says to me,why don't u paddle out kook.lol yea im going to jump in the ocean in December with a northface,no board,no wetty.i felt like beatin the guy up but I kept my cool.iv been surfing a long time,but mostly in the tri-state area,so I don't talk like my shyt don't stink.i never surfed Tahiti,never surfed pipe,never surfed oz,never surfed indo.im used to crappy beachbreaks with the occasional few epic days of barrels a year.the kids on here,will cry when a newbie,thats a local,decides to surf THEIR BEACH where u drove 30 miles to get to,and then cry about it on here.thats why places like Hawaii don't respect ppl from the eastcoast.if u cant share waves or deal with a 10+ crowd at your home turf,how the fuk are u going to handle 2nd reef pipe with 400 guys out when u have so much experience surfing double overhead 23footers on the east coast.shame on you.surfing is for fun,whether shortboardin,longboardin,supin,spongin,dolphin,etc
Sat on the beach yesterday at Assateauge Island with my kids and watched some other kids being pushed into some ankle slappers and riding the waves straight in. To see the stoke on their face is something to watch. I still remember the first time I stood up on a wave, riding a Morey Doyle. Still remember the first time going down line. Remember, only a surfer knows the feeling. This applies to all skill and age levels There is a fine line between being new and stoked, and using a sport like surfing to be your persona. I see similar things with golfing. There's the guy who loves golf, and the guy who thinks he's in a different class of people because they play golf. Are there golf kooks? Just my opinions. Carry on.
Perhaps everyone is angry with GAPERs. I thought I'd hear this more in surfing (its used a fair quite often in the mountains). No more use of the term "kook". Its getting played out. New term for folks that fall is GAPER (Guaranteed Accident Prone on Every Run) Those of you who didn't know...now know it! Embrace this! That's right, start a thread about it and call everyone you disagree with a GAPER! You might even pronounce it gapper! That's OK! Would that make you a spelling kook? Oh wait...GAPER because you are accident prone when it comes to speaking proper English. Maybe you're not a real surfer unless no one can understand you when you talk. Don't GO PRO, Go bro...brah
Remember, its not how well you surf...its how you talk and dress. IF you can talk like an uneducated trust fund kid that just rips...you need to get laid. The world owes it to you. NOYA is only applicable to the rest of the world and not you. You rule! Women want to be with you and men want to be like you. If anything, you are the Austin Powers/Dos Equis Guy (Most interesting Man in the World). Evvverrrryyyyy-one else is a total kook and should stick to Putt Putt since they aren't worthy of golf either (which you'd shred...if you wanted to). Speaking of golf, check out the rebels you see at the beach. "Yeah I don't play golf and tennis...SO GAY!" Be a true rebel and be the guy at your parent's country club that surfs. You are cool. Just wait until the richest guy introduces his hot daughter to your bad self. Then you'll never have to work again if you knock her up! Then you can have another generation...of YOU! Does this sum up any resentment felt by members of the SwellInfo Community? Hey its slow at work! I can post more! Don't y'all love this more of me me me? I might just have to pull an Agent Smith up in here. Perhaps I'm an agent working towards the demise of SwellInfo (have you read the thread?)
