Whether it was a breakup, death in the family, trouble at work, or just a need for an attitude adjustment, I want to thank surfing for always being there for me. You give me pleasure, keep me humble, and keep my mind and body strong. Thank you.
amen to that kahuna. im right there with ya. dont need a woman when you have the ocean. been through a lot of **** here with my family the last couple years. wouldnt be sane without it. "may the ocean keep you and guide you" will be on my grave
She kept me in check. beat me down when I really needed it and soothed my soul during turbulent times. She's the reason I'm a free man today. Other wise I'd be in some kind of facility paying penance or eating my own boogers. Thanks Ma.
Agreed! Corny as it may sound, I got goose bumps. For better or for worse surfing has affected all of the major decisions in my life since I started.
I'm with ya dude, every session be it small waves or big waves, it doesn't matter, I always come out of the water feeling better about everything in general. It's a way of life, a refuge, a place to let it all go, a place to be alone in my thoughts, a place to communicate with god, and a place to find happiness and peace within myself.
I've been in her for all of my 50 years. Been riding her for 40 of those years, maybe more. I don't try to define or explain her to others that don't know her. They don't get it. I RESPECT her even tho she often doesn't respect me back. I get PISSED when others ride her and I cannot. She can be a kind lover, whore, or a nun. My wife and her fight over my existence. My children have come to lover her. Age, work, and life conspire to keep me from doing her as much as I'd like, but I can still get it up when I'm with her.
Totally appropriate. Been thinking about this a lot lately. My father went into the hospital a couple of days before Sandy hit, and passed away there on November 10. Had a hard time getting motivated to get back in the water with everything going on, including finding an accessible break. Don't remember the exact day I got back in, but it was around Thanksgiving. For a brief moment, everything was normal and I was feeling pretty good. Very thankful that I can get that solace from the ocean.
