invest 93

Heh, lately it's become increasingly difficult to stay stoked. Been watching some of Chopes just to see a wave.

 

Brads, I'm always here for you if the stoke-o-meter starts wiggling to the left. We are what we think!

 

So Erin looks to be jumping northward yet slowing her act down. This is no time for chastity when we've got summer blue balls.

What's up with the other invest expected to hop over the landfall and proceed to the Gulf? Looks like TXshredmachine can step off the ledge I cause him to walk out on and he can rip a few on Galvy.

 

I think the jetty bear is getting a little shaken up and nervous about the upcoming hurricane season. I've never seen such a massive over head wave denier.

There was this one hurricane, it was either bill or earl if i'm not mistaken. I got way to drunk the night before, got up with a hangover and had some mcdonalds for breakfast. Put on a black rash guard. Rolled up to boilers where there was already about 20 cars parked. We get to the beach and it looks like a surf contest is going on, people standing on the beach, some suited, some zooted, some walking back to their cars saying f this. There was a fog bank over the water but it wasn't that dense and it was starting to break up in the morning sun. You could see just where the fog thickened there were perfect giant indo looking barrels just peeling in slow motion on the outside. It was all we needed to see.

I remember paddling into the white wash on the the inside and going over head high reform rollers and thinking holy snikeys this is interesting... Then we get to the first outside bar and some ten footers roll in and break right in front of us. I was charged up at the site of those waves so I duck dove and came up into a lull and knew I had made it if I could just paddle paddle paddle. So I start paddling for my life because I'm right in the impact zone and big sets are undeniably on their way. At this point I'm actually over heating because the paddle was easily 400 yards to the outside. I eventually strip off my rash guard but that wasn't until after I paddled over the first 20 footers. Now when I say 20 footers I mean 25, but in all likely hood they were 15 foot faces. So I'm about at the boiler stack when the first set appears on the horizon, I've just got out past the first outside bar and I'm thinking that's the spot. Turns out that was the reform spot for the ones that didn't break top to bottom on the outside. These bombs get closer and closer until the first one blocks out the rising sun, it's dark as night all of the sudden and I paddle for my life to the top of this wave that's as tall as a billboard (it seemed like it). Then when I come down the back of the wave, which took forever, now I'm in the trough of this set and to the shore I see the back of this giant wave rolling and crashing violently on the sandbar and out to sea is another beautiful perfectly formed peaky gargantuan beast of a wave that I have no desire to drop in on.

I never did ride one of those waves that day. I took off my rashguard and abandoned it to the sea so I didn't have a heat stroke. I momentarily got my nerves and sat inside waiting for some sets but got freaked when I took a 12 footer on the head and realized the 15 footers were going to break further out. In a moment of possibly life saving sanity I dropped in on a 10 foot reforming gently sloping roller and rode that mound of wash all the way in to the beach. It wasn't even a breaking wave most of the ride in just a smooth fizzy rolling swell. I waited a few minutes until my friends each got a wave in and realized we had drifted from the boiler about a mile to the north. It was scary waiting for them because I couldn't see them at all. They both rode on one of the giants and my friend talks about to this day how he felt if he didn't stick that wave he knew he was going to die in the wipe out.

Pretty intense story. It's like a fish tale, no one believes it.

 

I hear you dude, I threw on Endless Summer last night because my satellite got knocked out so had no signal, damn painters tripped on the wire and I have to have it replaced.

 

Erin may be slowing down; but we might see some good swell next week. Historically, in my life, everytime I'm on military orders and have no ability to surf the swell picks up.... I'm on orders all next week so you guys/gals may luck out. Is this bad karma or just Neptune mocking me... don't know

Trying to get your stoke up a little Jetty...