Getting the most out of each wave

I hear ya. One thing I always noticed is the good power surfers spend little time way out on the shoulder unless they are trying to generate a lot of speed for an end section air. Draw an imaginary line perpendicular to the wave right where the lip is beginning to curl/crumble over. The apex of their bottom turns is usually in that area or slightly before it. So, they're hitting the steepest part of the wave and are able to utilize the maximum power that the wave provides. When they drop back down after hitting the lip they'll be in the perfect position to lean into another bottom turn and do it all over again. Link a bunch of these turns together and you've got a solid power surfing ride.

 

it's not an equipment problem. That coil sounds rad. Shoot, if anything, leave it at home and get a crappy log. You will catch more waves and ultimately become a better surfer. It's all about being in the right place in the right time, or, rather, putting yourself there.

Oh yeah, in central Fl I wouldn't worry too much about hh-doh... and if you are traveling you will quickly adjust. Big waves are easier, but maybe I just say that because I am lazy.

 

Try jumping off bridges, high dives and rock quarrys to get used to that feeling of hurling over the ledge. One split second of hesitation and you get lip launched. (Make sure you snorkel the water below the bridge first to make sure you are not landing on any submerged cars, etc). Also try big wave fins, such as Sunny Garcia FCS. They will give you bite on big bottom turns. Make sure you can hold your breath in case you eat it at the bottom, and get hit by the wave behind it as you come up. Here is a tip: Take off on the last wave of the set to avoid double wave beat downs. Have fun

 

I left my Sunny Garcia FCS fins in my HPSB after a trip to Costa Rica because I was too lazy to take them out. I went out in HH surf here in FL and it really bogged on the turns. These fins crave the juice, love the power and speed of a big drop. You sacrifice a bit of maneuverability. but who cares when you make that balls out drop and get launched down the line. As far as sore shoulders go, I feel your pain DawnPatrolSUP. I have dislocated mine a few times. Yoga and tai chi can help you rehab it, with kneeling push ups to help strengthen. Now I can do full push ups again, but it took me a year to get back to this point after the last beat down. I am way too old for big closeouts, that is why I won't surf it big anymore unless it has an easy entry. Then I have to remember to kick out the back on the inside shore pound. Damn I hope it gets overhead soon.

 

watch lots of contests and videos of the pros when your not surfing and pause at each part of a move like before , during and after a turn to see what they are doing, the most important aspect is proper form, because unless your form is correct then you could try the same move forever and never get it right so try to have someone video you surfing in order to see what you need to work on.

 

This, right here. (that thudding sound was lee hitting the floor as he reels in shock at my agreeing with something he wrote.....no worries, he's young, he'll recover)

It's true, though. On the right coast, in summer, haul out the plank. Because the actual act of wave catching is the key to the ignition. Use the right equipment, practice angled takeoffs instead of the big swoop down the face where you outrun the wave & it 'dies' on you... (it didn't die on you, you're just out of position & too far off the shoulder), stay high on the wave whatever size it is & you've put yourself in the position to try some manoeuvers (sp).
I'd just say one other thing: if you aren't crashing & burning on waves, then you're not trying anything to improve. Not a criticism at all; just the nature of any sport.

Sounds like you're really on track to become a skilled surfer. And then? You can test drive for the gnome.

 

If you want to get better - you need to spend more time riding waves. But you know that
Watching videos can help and if you are so inclined this book is worthwhile

http://www.amazon.com/Surfing-Manual-Advanced-Jim-Kempton/dp/0977556913/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1377047230&sr=1-1&keywords=surfing+advanced

It is one thing to know what to do - it is another thing to get your body to do it -

On the subject of fins, they are fairly individual FCS has some good templates depending on how much you weigh. I think you have a 5 fin option - I like quads - the Stretch template in procore construction works good for me
Jim

 

I think a lot of the advice given so far is spot on. I would also say if you want to get the most out of a wave as in longest ride then make sure your turns/hacks/gouges/Etc move you back to the sweet spot in the wave where the power keeps pushing you. If you mean getting the most out of the wave as in most powerful turns you can do then well I guess same thing would apply, stay in the pocket, build speed and bury the rail. Course typing that is a lot easier than actually doing it as my surfing will attest. Plus the cane swells that are coming (I'm an eternal optimist now) will help.

 

pay attention to your upper body. where are your shoulders in a turn? how about your trailing arm? head? These are important things in big turns.

 

nah, we get along fine when surfing is actually the topic, rare an occasion that may be.

 

bottom turn is a speed killer on anything under head high.