Lol Charles u know that sentiment has been said before and Roy would put down who ever would say that. So just keep that in mind.
I'm not sure what you are implying .. I am just a guy who enjoys building wooden boards and the style created by Roy coined 'pure surfing' seems pretty simple to me. A style of surfing that doesn't have any goal other than surfing. The reason this speaks to me is because I've spent years in the water trying to just surf and that's all, I hate nose walking and pretty much everything else other than timing my wave entry perfectly and going as far as I physically can in a section and then being able to get off the back of the swell to paddle out between the incoming set without getting caught inside. What has itritated me over the years is the people I'm with in te water would say "dude you should have done this or tried that as I avoided board walking and don't care what a group of short boarders huddled together think.
Charles, I like you and all but you really should replace the term "surfing" with "trimming", surfing is what we all do, regardless of what style you call it, the act of riding a wave is in fact surfing.The style that you and Roy coin "pure surfing" should be referred to as "trimming", as that essentially is what it is in the world of surfing. I know i know, Roy doesn't subscribe to the same set of rules of all the other surfers in the world, but let's just call it what it is, trimming...
Roy has never suggested that one of his boards is required so you are arguing against a mirage of your own making. The term 'pure surfing' is something I came up with as a convenient phrase which encapsulates some of my surfing and design ideology, as said previously, other people can use it to refer to whatever they like, I don't own it. .
It's a pretty simple concept, one either gets it or one doesn't, it seems. We call them 'the sad boys club' ... a convenient phrase which encapsulates a common thread in their group mind set.
You have been advising us to call what we do 'trimming' rather than 'surfing'. If you don't know what you mean by trimming then your suggestion becomes meaningless. Technically surfing always involves the surfboard being used at an angle of trim, therefore all surfing is 'trimming'. If that's the case then one can use either term as one pleases. If you have some other definition of 'trimming' then please type it out so that we know what you mean by it. .
Your term "pure surfing" = trimming, that is the easiest way to explain it to you without getting to technical about something so basic. You are basically giving yourself an excuse to not be any good at surfing, and you consider it "pure". By standing in one place like a statue only to get to the end of the wave, you are no different than the beginner who is just simply trying to go for a ride on the wave without falling, which by evidence of your surfing in the videos you provide, you're doing exactly that. Why don't you go work on your balance some and learn how to stand on a board without looking like you are going to fall every two seconds. You can make up all the cute names you like, but at the end of the day, you aren't doing anything different than the beginner surfer. Trimming is to surfing what idling / coasting is to driving a car.
The phrase has not previously been part of the surfing vernacular, as far as I know. What I mean by 'pure surfing' is surfing pared down to only what is necessary. The 'no mind' state can of course be achieved while partaking in other methods of surfing, but in my opinion the tricks which are almost universally demanded by the modern prescribed surfing mind set are generally detrimental to its achievement. You lot can have your performance and style indicators, I'll just do what it takes to make the wave.
Dawn patrol I like you too, you seem like a decent man but I don't think you believe what you just said. Referring to Roy's style as a beginner is just silly. Seriously I think it's statements like what you've just made that can help justify the style of pure surfing ie a style which involves no need for special moves. It's appealing that more people can't accept a style that is different and just as unique as anything else that's been done in surfing. Roy has taken the white noise out of surfing. Thank you Roy.
On what basis do you claim that the addition of the unnecessary is required for surfing to be 'good'? The problem with your argument is that it is obvious that I don't just stand there like a statue, and doing so would make it far more difficult to make waves. Regarding beginners, their goals are often less corrupted by the unnecessary than those who consider themselves to be experts, so I'll take the comparison as a compliment. Have you ever heard people say that they've never been more stoked than when they caught their first wave? The proof is in the pudding, I don't wear a leash and I only rarely fall... ergo my balance is excellent... I don't need a wide bug stance in order to stay on my board. Funny how a couple of pro surfers couldn't achieve it. The appearance is certainly deceptive... I can make many waves which those who are 'revving it up' cannot make, and if I can do so 'idling' then let's just say that I have more horsepower and don't waste it by drifting or doing burnouts. .
Thanks Charles. It's certainly a bonus that everyone isn't doing it! Some of the pioneers ( like Tom Blake for example) appear to have ridden waves with a similar approach, I sometimes feel their presence when riding my bigger boards and wonder how they would have enjoyed riding them if they'd had the chance. The mainstream is modernist to the core, what we are doing is post modern, having much in common with the early days of surfing is part of that post modernism. .
I'm sorry but "tricks" are not required nor demanded by anybody in the "free surfing" world. Only in competition are they "required" for a high score. However, 99% of surfers are not competing and are purely surfing for their own enjoyment. Guys / Gals have been doing "tricks" on surfboards for a very long time only for their own enjoyment, it's a form of expression, an art form if you will. When a surfer decides to perform a "trick" it is because that is what they are feeling at the moment, having NOTHING to do with any rules or expectations set forth by any audience. When I go surfing, i'm typically in the water by myself, maybe a couple others who decided to wake up before dawn like me, and there aren't any spectators usually, maybe a person walking by, but that's it. To suggest i'm doing a cut back or a floater for anybody other than myself is ridiculous and false. It's just something that feels right and a way to enjoy the wave more. Going straight down the line with no intention of doing anything else gets boring and redundant after a while, so throwing in a maneuver here and there CHALLENGES myself. It requires very little skill or talent to trim / "pure surf". Sorry, I call it how it is, a spade is a spade.
And Roy, the proof is certainly NOT in the pudding. You have a very delusional sense of self. I've seen your videos, and you most certainly have trouble keeping your balance. Just because you don't hit the water doesn't mean you have good balance. A good surfer wouldn't look like he's struggling to keep his balance through his entire ride like you do. Throwing you hands forward with a stance that resembles taking a dump in the woods is no more appealing than the wide stinkbug stance you referenced. By suggesting your way of surfing is "pure" while others are not, you just make a mockery of surfing. This has to be a joke, you really can't be serious with this crap. Look at yourself on video dude, for F sakes!
Tom Blake built a ridiculous 20 ft board which is wicked cool. Tom wegner rode it and was amazed by it, thinking it was the coolest thing, a novelty to surfing. See swell info trolls , others in surfing have though outside the box and had allot of fun with it. Me and Roy aren't the only guys who enjoy and appreciate a different style. Note the part in this link where it speaks of the resurrection of ancient style.. Roy I bet Tom Blake would love your boards as in my opinion your olos have an acient charm coupled with a modern and hydrodynamic dominance yet done in a unique 'old school' but yet so modern approach. Tom Blake appreciated the past which is important. Here's a fun link about a tom Blake surfboard [video=youtube_share;xcvTE6c0HTg]http://youtu.be/xcvTE6c0HTg [/video]
No I don't. Yes it does. I've suggested that surfing without doing unnecessary antics is 'pure surfing, I haven't made any claims about surfing with 'Dawnpatrol pleasing style' Look at those falling off their shortboards while trying to compete... fortunately for your delusional view you don't have to share the waves with me!
Why do you use this term? Because we have a different opinion than you? Should we also call you a troll? I don't think you'd care for that term as you're just stating your opinion as I and others are. Trolling would be if we were just trying to get a rise out of you. That is not what I or others are doing here. Maybe yesterday I was having a little fun with Roy on the contraction he made (yes you did Roy), but other than that I've been dead serious in my posts and am providing genuine feedback. Just because it defies yours or Roy's train of thought, shouldn't mean that I or others are "trolls".