Best wave/location for first barrel?

Thanks brotha, so Ponce isn't nude friendly? Never woulda thunk it, all this time I've been wondering why people gawk at me as I walk by blowing in the wind. "Don't act like you're not impressed!"

Thanks for the tips in all seriousness, like I said, I've been able to get lucky a few times but making it more of a habit when conditions are ripe is what i'm after. I've become close friends with the sandbar at the Inlet several times trying.

So having that kind of control and being able to read the wave that well is something that will come with time i'm sure. Been watching lots of vids, but I need to check some new ones out, been watching same ones over and over again.

 

Man, this is yet another sick thread. SI is on a roll lately. Only prob with this thread is that barrell is misspelled in the title.

 

Brah, you had it right. Someone called it a barrell on here weeks back and from then on that's what it's spelled to me at least on SI.

 

you tell him emass! bayroll is how its pronounced.

 

Sick, brah. You clearly have the hot hand this week. Let it fly. Keep the posts coming and make sure you take this streak to the bank with the women this weekend.

FREE SB

 

Identifying waves surfing potential is a tremendous skill by itself. This would be YOUR first step. It seems your overthinking it and want someone to hand feed you a perfect tube. YOU need to identify your prey and hunt it down. I'm always on the hunt. Repetition is key to getting tubular. There are so many variances in speed, thickness, and size so there isn't a single recipe for getting tubed. You need to be extremely present in the moment and react accordingly. For any control you must be able to slow down and speed up on a dime. Navigate through that hole until your out or it collapses completely. Don't bail early or try to escape or you'll receive massive beatings! Take off late and/or deep. You need to paddle your hardest to stay under the lip! Don't be a p*ssy! You will take beatings hunting for tubes. Lots. On MOST east coast barrel days I'd be lucky to make 50%. So what, it's still super fun. Some tubes that you almost make and/or travel far in are still the sh*t and offer plenty of stoke. Never be discouraged, if you get shacked after a ton of beatings you'll appreciate it that much more. It only takes that one wave sometimes to make your week.
The obvious beginnings: Sand bottom, not big, not crowded.
Ride as many waves as you can, always! You have a lot of hard work to do but if you stay on it, ye shall be rewarded.

 

Sick post brah. One of many sick posts in a sick thread.

 

I've been racking my brain trying to figure out how to write what I do in a way that makes sense. I'm almost there, but will have to do it later today or tomorrow because WB IS FIRING RIGHT NOW!

PEACE!

 

Been naked a few times at Ponce too, but I did it at night!

Got lit with a few friends after a contest and went streaking through "Chases" (in NSB) for a night surf... not as brave as you though, mine were all at night! (and unsober)

To tell you the truth I never go out surfing looking for a barrel. I just paddle out and hope for a few really good waves. There are plenty of barrels (or how ever you spell it) at Ponce to be had.... Also NSB side at high tide! I have a big poster on my wall of a picture I had blown up of me in a nice size barrel at Ponce. Even on the small days you can still find a little cover up here and there.

Like I said though I never paddle into a wave knowing its going to barrel. It just all happens so quick and I know it sounds cliche be its kind of instinct. How often do you see a guy that is about to get into a barrel look over his shoulder? Never! Its because you just kind of feel it and know its there and happening. Its also a different sound of a wave. Instead of just a crashing, thunderous normal sound its more like when you drive your car through a tunnel or underpass. It makes that "tunneling sound". Sorry, I can here it in my head but am finding it hard to describe the stupid sound effect coming out of my mouth.

The same goes for once you are in the barrel too, you just know what to do... whether it be speed up or slow down, or exit out the back.

I know what you're feeling though, I had the same feeling when I started surfing. When I was pre-grom I would sit in my room and stare at all the surfing posters on my wall, I literally had my walls covered like a scrapbook with surfing picts and girls in bikinis! When I stared at the waves on my walls I could actually feel what it would be like to surf them. (same with picts of the girls!)

I think another thing that really helps your surfing improve is just travelling around to different breaks. Whether it be just in the state or out of the country. Another thing I highly recommend is for you to stick with the same shape board. One of the biggest mistakes for beginners is to constantly change their ride. Your board is like another appendage and the more familiar you are with it the more you will improve. Ever jump in a different car and just take off, it usually takes sometime to get used to it. It takes way more concentration navigating turns and parking and tight spots etc... because you aren't as familiar with it.

On that note... on a recent trip to Nicaragua we scored some of the best barrels of our lives! Full on stand up barrels! I have picts and when I have time I'll put some in my profile.

Actually a few days it was too big! We paddled out and watched guys with helmets get towed into some massive pits! Here's a video.... wasn't from that day and is a lot smaller but you get the idea....

http://video.search.yahoo.com/video/play;_ylt=A0S00MyuZlVSNG4A_lP7w8QF;_ylu=X3oDMTB2Mm9jNG1iBHNlYwNzcgRzbGsDdmlkBHZ0aWQDVjE0OQRncG9zAzE-?p=big+outer+reef+popoyo+video&vid=423458c1c5f6cd03b1250cc13c004451&l=2%3A50&turl=http%3A%2F%2Fts3.mm.bing.net%2Fth%3Fid%3DV.4994223456717726%26pid%3D15.1&rurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DwQ66I4Ar89U&tit=Outer+Reef+Popoyo&c=0&sigr=11a6gaasj&age=0&&tt=b

 

Fantastic advice, I'll be keeping this all in mind as well, thanks for the input (even if not directed my way)

 

All good dude, get waves, no worries on the response, Doug pretty much nailed it, but any technical advise that can be shared at a later date wouldn't be rejected

 

Thanks WaveHog, I actually never went nude at Ponce, that was just a joke, but you're story I believe, Chases is probably the most appropriate place for that, so it was probably just part of the ambiance to those who were there i'm sure HAHA. Not sure if your whole post was directed at me but thanks for the advice. I'm definitely no beginner, just not as advanced as I'd like to be and working on getting to the next level. Been in the barrel before, but it's always by luck or w/e, got into a couple in PR the last time down, and a few at Ponce like you said. Always seems to just happen and then all of a sudden i'm getting pounded, which is always fun as long as you don't hit bottom too hard. At any rate, I appreciate the feedback.

 

Pick waves that look like this

)\___)\___)\___)\

not like this

/\___/\___/\___/\

It'll be easier to get in/out of a tube if you're already up and riding down the line. An ideal setup would be head high rolling type waves that either hit much shallower water as they progress toward the beach or reform on the inside. You'll have enough time to get your feet situated and get your momentum going so you can concentrate on a section of the wave with tube potential.

To find that section look for a bend or bowl in the wave. Kind of a pocket if you will. Also, look for waves where the water in front of the breaking wave is relatively flat or maybe even below the level of the surrounding water. A gradual ramp up to the peak of the wave, while fun to ride, will rarely make a decent tube and getting in one will take much more skill.

Most likely in this situation you'll be able to cruise along the wave, hugging close to the wall and just stay there. Let that steep pocket section throw out over you. Keep going straight and hope for the best.

Most of the time if you don't make it the wave will hit you in the head and push you to wherever the lip hits the flats. Your board will still be in the spin cycle and go over your head so board/face impact risk is low.

Oh yeah, watch out where you bend over after the session. You don't want the quart of saltwater that will drain out of your nose to run all over someone's kitchen table or fill up a bag of popcorn while getting a seat at the movies. They'll never understand why you think it's funny.

 

Playa Zicatela

 

^^^^hahahaha good one. There or Shippies.

 

If you live in socal go to the flowrider at wavehouse! That's the best way to feel it out before you can pull off the real thing

 

Just stall in the pocket ... Also make sure to check out Deal, nj

 

ive surfed grande quit a bit great spot tbh i love beach breaks, i got shacked at Avellanas though when it was big enough. it was amazing.