I'm going surfing today

Me too, PJB, me too.

 

Are you experiencing a bout of analysis paralysis? Don't let it get you. Jump on down to the beach and have a swim. Waist high south swell in the south, sesh 3pm 'til dark, good wind, beer and food after, life is good.

 

I wish I over analyzed it today. Went out in northern Monmouth county and got pounded...hard. After an hour of closeout whoopings I got one ok turn before riding the face before heading straight to the beach. One hour- one good ride- 5-6 closeout crushers.

 

Good call waiting for the buoy to drop this afternoon, probably made it easier to paddle out that funshape ya kook.

 

I was under the jet ski with my swim fins in giving the backwoods boys the extra push. Actually, even though I live right down the road from there, I surf in Delaware maybe 10 times a year, always worth the few extra minutes to OC other than very very specific conditions.....or if town is completely out of control and a drifty mess.

I was actually in Santa Cruz on vacation with the wife. Scored a 12ft straight west swell, it made pleasure point less than pleasurable. And by scored I actually meant i paddled around my 6-2 for three hours wishing I had an extra average dong of length sticking out the front.....I think I caught 3 waves. I realized i made the wrong call and should have been surfing the wash through at steamer, you live and learn.

 

today will defiantly go down as one of my favorite sessions. Huge barrels, and some of the heaviest wipeouts ever in OC. Why can't this happen in summer? Defiantly wasn't the warmest session . . .

 

It was actually better at low incoming with the best of it between 1:30 and 4:00. Earlier was fun but not as good as it was in the afternoon. Paddled out at 10:30am caught one in at 5:10pm
pretty much in the dark. Now that is a good day of surfing.

 

Went out today! Not saying how big it was, but good lord was it solid, got out there around 1 and got one of the best barrels ever, then saved a kid who was out in 3/2 with no boots or gloves or hood, he was getting hypothermic.

1st time I've ever had to do that, all in all a great day!

 

That's funny. I got spanked today. Waves were perfect, I was not.

 

Today...I was actually uncomfortable out there...new board, dumpster diver which may of not helped...no way I was going to get it dialed in those waves...just recently got back into it since a 15 year layoff. Back then, no problem with thick steep big barrels. Today, was uncomfortable and kinda bummed out with my surfing today...pulling back is something I do not like to do. Some sets were easily a few feet overhead and maybe bigger...wasn't the size, it was the steepness. Should of surfed my other break...better low tide break. Oh well..next time.

 

My thoughts exactly!!!!! Best swell in a while- epic conditions - although maybe not epic size...

Same thing happen to me, just didn't get to surf as long... Surfed a spot I usually don't. It looked like it was head high- and I knew some bigger sets where coming- but once I got out I was like 'wow i didn't think it was this big!'
The offshore winds made it perfect!!! Man only if we got waves like that every week! So stoked! Praying there is something left tomorrow...

#belmar,nj
#saltlife
#barrels

 

Nice job on saving that kid.
It was fun off VB early this afternoon. There was some young guy out there for quite awhile in short suit and boots. Don't know how he could do it. Water temp was no more than 50.

 

good on ya SJB. us commoners had to work today. looked good from jerz to rhody. hope yall got some.

 

So much ice in CT...so much ice...after digging myself out then the fam it was noon. Not even fun snow to play in.

 

+1
It was a bit steep but man it was dredging and fast. It felt good. First time in since Thanksgiving for me. My deer tags and, thus my freezer, are filled. Felt good to get back in the ocean on a day like yesterday. Hope this pattern locks in.

 

yesterday late AM in southern MoCo was gnarly. 25 MPH offshore winds, HUGE, and i didn't see one person get a good wave from Spring Lake to Deal. i opted out so i could see my kids open their Christmas gifts next week. F that sh*t, I'm old. LOL.
yesterday late afternoon looked way more manageable on the cams. i missed it b/c i needed to be home with the chillrens. oh well.