Surf Log

I wish I kept a log since day one, 28 years ago. It would be pretty f*ckin cool to look at. Maybe I'll start one now.

Groms!!! Do it! You won't regret it.

 

Dougie, I'm back on it. Already have half the entry for tomorrow complete with "conditions: GNARL".

What say you about a football watching log? NFL "Playoffs?!" start up this weekend and that's a great time to start. What do you think? May even fly a banner for football watching.

 

As WBF mentioned, don't forget to make subtle tidal obesrvations fellers.

 

I actually can't wait to start a surf log and for me it'll include whether I stood up or sponged.
What an awesome way to keep the stoke going.

 

I wish I did the same for fishing too. I totally kooked both. The good stories mostly stay in my head but details can be lost over time.

 

I think I'm somewhere around 100 to 120 also, and thats living 2 hours away from the ocean!!!! My dad spends alot of money on gas! I wrote on shells that we would find every time we went. I'll definetley do it again this year!

 

I almost forgot too that whenever i have a sesh in belmar i'll have to write in my liquid gold ink and mark that day as a day of remembrance each year.

 

Now you're lying. 100-120 days in the year? All I remember is the last 6.5 RI swells that came you said you couldn't get a ride out for. I don't even remember you surfing after August 15th. C'mon grom, don't lie to us. You just throwing out numbers and saying you surfed that many days, Brick?

 

As jan comes to a close I got a measly 4 seshes in. And none were anything to get excited about. Man it's tough with kids, daughter is 5(for now, wants nothin to do with surfin) and son is 15 mos(Kai, he'll be my surf brah). Anywho, better than nothin.

 

For a number of reasons, I got in only 5 sessions in this month - the lowest since I started surfing in Sept 2012 when I was 57. Until this month, I had been averaging 3X/week. Family responsibilities and priorities make it tough. Enjoy your family. It will go by quickly. You've probably already heard that. Spend time with your kids and wife. I have 4 kids. Three are now in college and one (who's special needs) is in high school. I have more opportunities to surf now with 3 kids in college than I would've had when they were younger.

 

i surfed 1624 days this year.all seriousness,its hard to keep a log.i read about ken bradshaws log like hed catch 40 waves a sesh plus 250days a year.too much math for me

 

I wanna start one. I'm gonna put the date and location. It'll be just a little note thing in my phone but I think it'll be a fun idea

 

I already gave up on mine. A couple mediocre sessions and i just couldnt write them down.

 

What's more important: number of sessions or quality of sessions? You can surf 150 times a year but how many of those are good to epic? I keep a surf log and try to get as many as possible but only a few a year are really, really good.

 

At 51 years old with multiple kids and all their activities to support, multiple jobs, multiple animals, and multiple women to support, any and every session feels special. I personally don't give a sh!t if the conditions are "epic" or not. I guess it depends upon your personal situation. My journal is in my head.

 

I have kept a log for about 8 years running. Not too much detail - wave size, glassy or chop, what I rode, who I was with, where... enough to think back about a few fun waves.

Turned 50 in 2013 - 50 days of surfing… by the numbers...

Conditions:
25 days of semi clean - basic jersey juice.
18 days of chop - challenging, but doable.
6 days of pure glass conditions - got lucky on these.
1 day of absolute perfection - a rarity indeed.
Waves I surfed were ankle high to overhead during the 365 days - averages to 3ft+ wave size for the year.

The Rides:
Biggest wave of the year… Jupiter, a left, overhead drop, near the end of the Juno pier, connected all 3 sections right to the sand. A long, fast and fun ride.
Best wave of the year - 9/13 - sheer glass, A perfect left, walled up from pipe to jetty and I was all over that face.

The Sessions:
21 solo sessions - meaning went solo - only 3 where I was actually alone.
3 grovel sessions - really trying to squeeze out ridable waves from ripples.
1 major spanking from huge conditions 12/15/13 next day after the snow storm.
1 Black Friday surf - 20th in a row!
4 days surfing with the kids.
11 days my son tagged along and surf fished - the boy is "hooked".
1 Surf Contest - Rode a 1963 Hobie, and I didn't place last!

The Injuries:
1 surfboard to the head - it happens.
1 board to the face followed by a 1 hour bloody nose - it looked like a murder scene. Oh yeah, now I snore.

The Wildlife:
1 manatee in the surf - big, dark and moving fast, was pretty freaky - but very cool.
45+ dolphins - probably off on this number, had to be more, including a few feeding frenzies
5 sharks - all little, if you think 5 feet is little - and all in Florida, none in NJ this year.
3 sea turtles - all big, and super fast - and again, all Florida.
1 seal in Spring lake. Scared the bejesus out of me, till I saw the whiskers.

The Equipment
37 days on the 9.0 WRV - I guess that's the "go to" board (based on the avg. 3ft conditions).
9 days on the 7.2 Frierson
3 days on the 6.4 CI
1 day on the 7.6 Oceanside, my very first surfboard from 21 years ago! Hasn't been ridden in almost 12 years.

 

Concur with that, and well said. We're not kids anymore. With everything else going on in one's life and all the responsibilities, just getting out is special. None of my sessions have been epic, but I haven't been surfing long enough to have any business being out in such conditions.
I was out today for an hour. Surfing when there's snow on the ground is kinda cool - literally and figuratively. To folks up north, it's probably no big deal; but we don't see much of that down here.