get on it today if you can

that's a great way to get a little warm up before paddling out while waiting for the tide to drop. gotta get the car out to get to the beach anyway, right?

 

I must say, I am a little disheartened. I have seen a couple dozen pretty money photos from today up north (just in this thread alone!). Especially in Delmarva. If anyone up there is questioning getting on it, I would have to question your sanity. If it wasn't a 11 hour drive, I would load up, grab the 6 mil from my Dad's house in Bethany and be all over that. Fu** the weather or temps. Its freaking 26 degrees outside right now on Hilton Head Island. I am FOR SURE going out in the morning, with hopes to catch the jumbled, 2-3 foot junk that we have in store. Bastards. What happened to everyone on this site swearing that they couldn't wait for winter, and the solitude and barrels that it brings. Well hey, its here. Right now apparently. There are starving surfers all over the south east that would eat the scraps off of your plates right now....

Booooo....

 

+1 We southeast surfers would trade places in a heartbeat. I havent surfed anything since the 29th, and planning on going out sunday morning to catch some semiclean 1-3's. id do anything for some cold barrels right now.

 

fu**in right brother.

 

Looks like ours is coming late tomorrow and through Sunday, think I might wear a wetsuit

 

looks like yall scored, right on!

 

If it looks choppy again tomorrow like this im still going out havent surfed in a week.

 

You should have come and get it then. Lots of open waves with endless paddle outs against unrelenting currents. All this for a wave that a good cameraman like Mitchell and a brave rider willing to get creamed for the money shot, make look better in a still than it was to ride.

 

He hosts the full size shot on another site and imbeds the link in his post.

 

No closeouts at all today right brah? Since closeouts don't exist.

 

You must be a little slow if you didn't understand my other post. The point of that is that it's the surfers ability or lack of, that determines a closeout and rarely the wave itself. Can't tell you how many times I have pulled back from the edge and have friends say why didn't you go? If I say it was a closeout they respond yeah look at it closeing out all the way to the beach. Never said closeouts don't exist only surfers without the ability to ride the wave the way it needs to be ridden to beat the sections. I for one get closed out on all the time and I imagine, considering the lack of talent I see in the water most days most get closed out on even more.

 

Yeah Zippy, f*cking yeah! That's makes sense.
Thanks dude.

 

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHA!

Nice double... or triple entendre Zip!



No waves in SENC.... gonna go dig some holes and put some posts in them... as soon as the ground thaws enough.

 

Bro. I got what you were hinting at. And yes, you said:

I knew exactly what you meant about fast drops and getting spit out in time. You make it sound like every wave everywhere is rideable and c'mon brah, how many of us are paddling into Bali every day? Bro, we don't see Kelly charge Nantasket Beach in MA on a bad windy day do we? He's sitting on the peaks of all peaks. I was talking about the mornings after heavy rains in ES where winds had yet to clean up and, yes, waves were closing out.

There are waves not even worth paddling into that some paddle into and they were screwed from the start as it's gonna close out. There are also many waves that look great coming in and even as you keep looking back over each shoulder during your paddles right before takeoff and then boom it closes out on you. This happens less the more experienced you get and the better your wave selection gets, but it's no walk in the park when you're in less than optimal conditions.

Life ain't a wave pool for all of us like Kelly, brah. There are close outs to be dealt with. I'd not even take the time to write this post if your original one wasn't trying to learn me good on Wave 101 and then your next post here was trying to tell me I didn't read what I read from you before. Whoomp, there it is, brah.

 

Man, I wish I knew exactly, in my first year of surfing.
I'm going on my 29th year and I'm still learning. Go figure.

 

true if they cant make the sections, but if your to far back and its closes heavy its impossible unless you got a diesel powered wave jet wth a 5in lift kit.

 

S. Hampton looking good....not for me.....wind chill 5 Deg., water temp. 44 deg., gawd I like the tropics. Geez, I might have to wear a 1.5 mm wetsuit top today, with the water temps at a frigid 74 deg.....lol

http://beachcam.minarditraining.com/wid001.jpg

 

Rigggghhhhttttt, most SE surfers would have been sitting next to heater vent yesterday. Man, chuck that.
Please, Sand Diego and South Carolina do not give one "winter cred." And neither does summers in OCMD as a child, while living in Havre De Grace, MD.

Paddling out in South Carolina in 40 degree weather today, with 60 degree water temps ain't no big deal. I saw Myrtle Beach on The Weather Channel yesterday - it was barely two foot. Good luck.

Interesting you called the Delmarva shots, money. They were by FAR the most manageable waves shown, as OCMD was further away from said storm, hence mo pretty. The Jersey photos had gumption.

Anyways, I felt ill. I checked the surf in the morrow and it just wasn't that good. Then in the afternoon when the tide dropped, I just wasn't feeling it all. The surf got better throughout the day. Sorry. Plus, some days I have transportation issues because I was an outlaw.

Being a smart fellow, you should realize that a lot of fellows on here aren't really that core. I mean no disrespect to anyone, and I don't mean just because you sat out yesterday you aren't core. But alot of dude on this site aren't crazy dedicated, and that's their perrogative. They listen to Bobby Brown.

And spots greatly differed up here yesterday. And that one photo you see that looks great may have been the only good wave in three hours. Lot's of waves breaking too fast yesterday, lots of sectiony deals too.

Plus, when you live in the promise land like we do, another swell will come. Shucks we got another swell on it's way in a day. And we've had some good kegs the past thirty days all of which I was present. One of Jersey's heralded pros almost lost his eye on December 15. Please send him a card(Zach Humphries in c/o Heritage Surf Shop 744 West St. OCNJ) Oh shoot, you guys have the same name.

It was one day. Just one day. We get plenty of them up here. Hey, man don't bag and judge people up here. It's not our fault South Carolina sucks. Ahhhh, I guess you miss those huge Swamis days..........and frigid air temps of North county.

Your dad lives in Bethany? Oh, 11 hour drive was too long. How many hours would you drive? Just curious where the threshold lies.

Good luck today Zach......ha it's still 2-4' up here.......10 F and I feel pretty better today. So, I'm on it. My friggin pipes froze last night Zach.......well one shower won't turn on.......SW winds stay silent until I exit water....AND YOU TIDE START DROPPING QUICK-LIKE......

I love you, ZAch, but please no frozen machismo from South Carolina, ok, brah.

 

Oh and I'm really learning aboot waves on the last pages of this thread.

They all learn so quick today with the internet and all........

God, I love to see some of the dudes on here in person......

 

PJB, God bless you guys....you folks got soul. I don't think my old bones could handle that cold....maybe in my younger days.