I Surf Because...

I feel like this is 1) the tenth thread of its type in the last year, and 2) something I've voluntarily digressed on countless times here. But it's a great affirmation so I'll do it again.

I charge waves because it makes me feel more closely knit with the natural world than most anything else. I also charge waves because it's so damn hard and I'm still so piss poor that each day I go HAM with a smile I'm so much better after for it even though I've still got so, so far to go in the grand scheme. Not often can we see and feel our daily progress in our endeavors. I feel that's always on the table when I hit the water - I can clearly observe the outcomes of immersing myself in the process that day. Lastly, I charge waves in anticipation for the times I actually am able to "surf" waves. As in, execute well enough that I'm actually resembling a moderately acceptable level of proficiency in the act.

It's been some of, if not the best therapy I've ever had on a day to day basis in my entire life. I've met some awesome people that I genuinely get to be friends with rather quickly and it's taking me to many beautiful parts of the world I've yet to see. It also is invaluable to us for the sheer fact of keeping us in check with the fragility of life in that one rip or rogue wave can put us and those around us in jeopardy.

Surfing tosses to the side all the crap in society and this life that keeps us from feeling truly alive.

 

I read this thread grinning like an insane man. Great descriptions and yes, it has been said before, but as Emass says, it's good to reaffirm from time to time. I surf because I'm a better person when I get out of the water.
viajerodevida
I know what you mean. Trying to describe the total ocean experience to my friends that don't surf is a painful experience.

 

i surf because chicks dig it

 

What else is there to do honestly? When its flat we wish for waves, we skate on our cruisers replicating pumping through barrels, its a sense of importance and dedication. Going out when its 0 degrees is just a thing we jersey boys do to fill our fix. Summer sucks after all, we vacation across the globe in search of perfect waves.

 

why do YOU surf? top ten for me…..

1) if exercise was a pill everybody would be taking it.
2) i have a lot of time/money/effort sunk into it.
3) i buy into the notion of 'life aspirin.'
4) i have a fantasy that i actually AM kelly slater.
5) i don't like phonys and there seem to be less of them out surfing.
6) i respect the ocean; as such (so far) i can play in it without repercussions others would
suffer.
7) although i'm hardly underweight it seems to have made me 'less fat.'
8) it encouraged me to travel as such my horizons have broadened.
9) it seems to be easier to make true friends w/surfer types than with general public.
10) it is fun that does not leave a footprint.

 

this pretty much nails it. i feel like this, or something like it, is the answer you'd get if you posed this question to most of the old(er) surfers in the line up who've been at it consistently since they were young(er).

[video=youtube;4uwtqRBE4Kk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4uwtqRBE4Kk[/video]

 

i have nothing better to do.

 

I surf for both superficial and spiritual reasons. Superficially, I figured I looked cool when I was 19 and had a neon short board and I honestly loved the image. Yep, I even felt cool with it on my car. I admit it. And in some ways I still like that. Now I am 46, married, have had a severely handicapped daughter and lost her at age eight, have had two more healthy children, have a stressful career and have made poor investment choices and found myself in a lot of debt, had a complete nervous breakdown with a month in a mental institution and an attempt at my own life, and a lot of major highs and catastrophic lows. My funk surrounding that stint in the nuthouse was a dark, dark period, and what finally broke through it, and gave me the feeling that I could get better, was a surf sess I was talked into. I never thought I'd surf again. And after that this goofy diversion that nobody except us understands the allure of, helped to slowlbring me back to happiness. It helped save my life, no bullshs!t. I always look forward to the next time in the water, the feeling it gives me, and the friends i have made through surfing. Lots of memories of great and obscure places I've gone to do it and knowing that there is swell coming sooner or later no matter what you're going through, it's what keeps me centered and happy. It's one of the most important things in my life. I am glad to say I am happy again, and in no small part because of the ocean.

 

Wow man I'm almost at a loss for words, which as many here know is not typical. My condolences on the loss of your daughter. This is one of the best redemption stories I have ever heard. I am very glad to hear that surfing brought you back from the edge of that "cliff" you were on. I think this speaks volumes to the way the simple act of wave sliding can bring a joy to a surfers life that only another surfer could ever understand. My son is 8 and I honestly could not imagine losing him and not sure if anything would ever bring me joy again if I did, but I would venture to say that surfing perhaps would be the only thing that might.

I wish you continued happiness and health for you and your whole family and hope the stoke never fades! Surf on Brother!!!!

 

I surf because it taps into the wilderness of the mind.

 

Started to type so many sentences and keep backspacing.... Speechless. I do know the incredible power of the water to help one heal first hand. Thanks for sharing and I wish you the best. God bless your family.

 

TS: Thanks so much for sharing that. Very thought and emotion provoking. We have a special needs daughter: cranial-facial syndrome, a tracheostomy, and a lot of surgeries over the years. She's 16, the youngest of our four children, and will likely be with us until my wife and I are gone.
I didn't surf until 17 months ago at the age of 57, but it has helped me deal with some of the stresses of life and putting things in proper perspective. In this regard, surfing is much more than just recreation for me. I'm also grateful that I can get out on the water - especially in the winter time. I used to be involved in Filipino martial arts; but after that first ride on a board, my gi and kali sticks have remained in the closet. So many people my age don't do much of anything that's physically challenging. I'm not ready for the golf course. You'll never catch me out there.
Best wishes to you and yours. Take care, maintain the stoke, and keep hanging in there.

RC: Really good response to TS's post.

 

Thanks man. I wish you the best too with your daughter and her health. That is awesome that you strated surfing when most guys your age are slowing down and playing checkers in the park . Hate to sound like the little kid from Point Break but surfing really is the fountain of youth, it will keep you young in mind and body. And hey golf can be fun too you just need some "beverages" to make it so

 

Same here SCREWBY. Going through some stuff at the moment, nothing compared to the struggles mentioned by others, but I was reading this thread last night and and it was really touching, and affirming. I'm finding harder and harder to relate to people who don't feel so passionately abouth the Ocean, the Earth, and life in general(all of which riding waves riding waves keeps me tapped into).

 

TS, that was powerful, take care!
everyone else, good to see a myriad of every reason
I dont know exactly why I surf, I just like it, but I think it had something to do with tubes and being in the tube. I just want tubes Also, its non boring exercise. Running, the gym, etc, all SUPER BORING.

 

Running isn't too bad, as it gives me a chance to space out and think about things at the same time. I would much rather surf everyday, but that just isn't possible with my work schedule (and the fact that SC has fickle surf). My main reason for surfing is because I like the physical conditioning aspect, and I also love the water.

 

running aint bad here, the bike path has all manner of interesting thongs, er ah, I mean things. Running in the cold back east would do me dirty

 

Tubesock, very inspirational, and certainly makes the little things I'm feeling bad for myself about seem trivial. The longer version of that story would probably make for an amazing book that would help a lot of people. Keep doing what you're doing.

 

Surfing was a way to coo my azz down. It really help after my 1st marriage. Before I married Beelzebub's twin sister, I was a pacifist. After, I quick to pass a fist across some lips. Luckily for me, the waves were big and gnarly for the 5 years it took for me to get over it. Getting the crap beat out of me has a humbling, and therapeutic effect.

 

a genuine post with no hate and a meaningful message? holy cow where am I? thanks for sharing all. seriously gained from that. and it's great to hear the relative truth that although 99% of people like to think of us as the
"woah dude can you pass be another bong rip braaaaaaahhhhh???" stereotype . . .
we are actually some of the wisest and most genuinely appreciative people on earth. I mean what other sub-culture is so inclined to unconditional generosity and friendliness, as people that are connected with the largest and most powerful force on our planet.
I think we can all relate to this. . .
One day at one of the best rights in all of buxton, on a serious south swell, three of my friends and I shared overhead barrel after draining barrel for a solid three and a half hours before two other guys, father and son, from Hampton came out. They were cool, and we had already scored so hard we didn't mind sharing a few. the son wound up going down on a drop and being caught inside right in the barrel zone. I took off on one of the last waves of a big set, and jumped off after finally seeing that we were on a collision course. Unfortunately it was too late, and his fins (brand new I later found out) pierced my board's foam all the way to the stringer and even pulled some foam out onto his fins! granted we both had to go in, and although I had just gotten the board, I couldn't be mad about it. Every instinct in my mind was screaming to just rock this dude in the face, but I had just scored so hard with my best friends that it just didn't matter. I had another board, and I didn't get hurt, so all in all, what was there to be mad about? he apologized, told me about screwing up his drop, and handed me a sandwich and a bowl rip, and I couldn't have been happier. There is something to be said for the flood of endorphins that will overwhelm you when you see your friends score and your friends just saw you score. The guy was so tripped out that I didn't care. I didn't stop smiling for a week after that, and still relish in the memory on these flat spells.
Basically. . . I surf because . . . there is no replacing the feeling of post barrel euphoria. and nothing can get you down if you can achieve it. The waves I've seen my friends get are just as much in my memory as my own waves. and I'm so happy for them because I shared the opposite with them.

Slide on.