I Surf Because...

I surf because in the water I feel free, I have no problem, I just fight against the waves. I surf because I love the water, the ocean...

Surfcamp France
Surfcamp Tamarindo

 

because i have a beer or two or three afterwards.

 

and because it's magical. you're falling , yet moving sideways, and using energy and gravity at the same time, man. wuuut?

 

and because chicks like it.

 

and because i like wearing a 5 mil

 

and because your moms like that I surf

 

that i understand him concerns me.

 

no way. don't be concerned. just let down those defenses little buddy and embrace the brotherhood, of shredding. we all shred, in our own special ways. you don't need to be a young, cocky little ripper dude riding a 5'10"X18 1/4" X 2-1/4" to understand how majestic riding a wave can be. get your shredness on. yes!

 

I surf because one day I might get a chance to meet NJShredmachine.

 

Because it's the best feeling/thing ever, and regardless of how it may seem in the water, most of the world is still unaware. That's why

 

nah... a chance to meet NJShredmachine is a better reason to surf.

 

Dude a chance to meet Shred is what I live for!

 

Why not wear a rashie?

 

I surf because MMA is my real passion! I like to go to the most crowded epic spots like Pipe,Desert Point, Shipsterns, Rincon, Blah ,blah,blah and kook out on my 17 foot twin fin (board shreds in triple OH) and drop in on all the locals. Then kick their asses and rename the surf spot. . .

 

ocsurf32 wins this post. re-name every break in the world : "ocean ****ty"

 

I surf because It gives me this great feeling while I'm on the wave, really indescribable if you'd ask me. It gives me something to look forward too. It's an amazing lifestyle if you ask me

 

Most intelligent thing you've posted yet, Fitzwatr.

 

I've looked for him in every city in Mexico... Came across an unclaimed piece of meet in Baja, turned out to be Chucky. Guess he picked a knife fight with somebody better...Found a passport of his I Sumatra... Missed by about a week in Fiji...
I'm gonna check Bells for 50 year storm. He won't miss that and I will get to meet him.

 

Pure gold man, pure gold!

 

+1,000...perfect F'n timing.