Surfing addiction?

Carverskateboards.com

The good lads have been opening up methastoke clinics coast to coast. Save your soul bro. Get on a Carver.

 

Addicted yes, ruin my life, not yet, we'll see, things going pretty good so far

 

Bro. More like it's saving lives. A stokeless life is the number one cause of soul death worldwide. Surfing or not. Do what you love and live it.

 

Hi everyone, my name is DosXX, and I'm a....

I've been involved in many different activities over the years, but none that I spent a lot of time thinking about when I wasn't actually doing it. Surfing though has been an entirely different matter. Even when I know I'm not going out, I'll check the forecasts and reports. I pay much more attention to the weather, wind direction, air and water temps, etc. I'll stop by the beach at the base where I work to watch the waves before heading into the office, as well as sometimes during lunch and on my way home. Surf racks and surf stickers on other cars catch my eye.
I find myself a bit out of sorts if I haven't been in the water for more than a few days. If I go running after work, it's along the beach. I spend a lot of time thinking about surfing and perhaps too much time on this Forum. I never counted on any of this when I started surfing 18 months ago.
Despite my "addiction", family and supporting my family come first.

 

^^^^^There you have it.

 

I'm hooked right now and I can't get enough, immediately after a day of surfing I'm looking for my next fix.

 

100%. we stood up and rode a wave and that was it. forever. they invent a second skin so we can go in cold. now we go in zero windchill, mid-30's water because we are addicts. a lot of unpleasantness for a little ride on a wave. warm water and warm air is another story.

as for hurting others or yourself, I would recommend God as the only hope, but since I am a Christian some si people will curse me. I wish they would tolerate this, but, well, we'll see...

right, tolerance...

Now if God was someone named mohammed, buddha, or llama would be fine...we could talk yoga, karma, drum circles, fruit smoothies, sushi, longboarding CR, handplanes, meditation, saving the planet, going vegan, marijuana, heroin, you name it...

but, I am talking about the living God, the one and only Lord and Savior, so woe be unto me if I say who on this here forum.

the true moderators who want their ways glorified don't seem to be willing to just allow it.

dissent or hypocrisy, let he who is without it cast the first post.

the hate of Christianity is one of the most powerful religions on si forum, if you believe it. you gotta have faith.

i'm totally addicted to surfing, and so of course I love the si forum, all thanks and praises be to Micah, since April 2008.

could be really good here tomorrow. all spread out, no jetties, so stop on by.

let me know privately if you really want to know how to keep this great gift called surfing from messing up your life. surfing should be a blessed act that enhances our lives. one of the most enjoyable things to do. the waves just keep coming. Go For It! A-WOO!

 

emass, amen. i couldnt have put it better myself. i am going to get a carver when i get my credit card paid off here. not to hijack, but what would you reccomend for maxium shreddage? i saw you really dig the green room model

 

Ima keep the sanctity of the addicts' thread for they need intervention. Go in the Carver thread and talk about your surf and skate style and experience and I'll give my thoughts as will the other asphalt destroyers.

 

RE: Beachbreak's post.
Uh-oh. I can see the storm clouds gathering now. I'm certainly no saint, but I don't have a problem with folks sharing/talking about their faith. Nor do I have a problem talking about mine, if it comes up in conversation. However, there are those who really get wrapped around the axle over such matters - not just here, but a lot of places.

Anyway, I agree with BB's statement "surfing should be a blessed act that enhances our lives. one of the most enjoyable things to do." I'm grateful that I can get out and do this "surfboard riding" thing - as someone once referred to it. I started later in life (57) and don't take it for granted.

A couple years ago, I was on a work-related trip to the west coast - Port Hueneme, CA - near Ventura. Used to live there. Early one morning during my visit, I went out running near Surfer's Point by the Ventura Pier and the Fairgounds. Love the smell of the ocean on the west coast. Must be the kelp. Anyway, I saw a number of guys out there on DP and slowed to watch. Then I noticed something. These guys with their longboards had gray hair, bald heads, and some had bellies. These weren't kids. They were in their 40s on up. That got me thinking. Oh heck, they've probably been doing this since they were kids. Then again, perhaps not. But at that point, it didn't matter. If I really wanted to do this, I should go for it. The time will pass regardless of what one does or doesn't do; and as one gets older, it doesn't get any easier.

So less than year later I was out in the water on my board off VA Beach, looking foolish perhaps. Some gray haired guy with a grayish beard driving a Gran Marquis with an old, beat up and ugly, Palmolive green board strapped to the roof. But who cares about looking foolish when getting out there and making the effort to learn something new and different? Actually, I've gotten used to learning new skills and going through that awkward beginner phase. It's all part of the journey; and it's the journey, not so much the destination that should be enjoyed.

So now anytime I'm able to get out on the water, whether it ends up being a good or not so good session, it makes the day special. For that I am grateful...and very likely addicted.

Got a bit long winded there. Too much late night coffee - an addiction I picked up while standing watches in he Navy.

 

"Just go with it, man"

 

Sensing major tool here. Passive Aggressive DC tool, actually.

Like, bro, you make your post, and SI Forum dudes respond, and you see the flow of the posts nailing you to your cubicle wall, and you go, bros, bros, like, I was only joking, as if we are the ones who don't get it or something.

Passive aggressive smeller of Gary Williams post-game BVDs, just lighten up Francis, and if you're gonna post up on the SI Forum, don't qualify it later on as something that we're just not in tune with.

(And if I get an infarction for this, you GOTTA be kiddn me, wayne the insane the new mod simod666.)

 

Aw, why so sad? Melancholia in your fifties is wasted emotion. Surfing is life, dogs are life, if it ever warms up on the east coast, there will again be Life.

 

so far so good w/this approach.

 

Wow, is that how it came across? It's worse than I thought. I gotta get back in the water.

 

I stopped surfing for maybe 14 years...surfed a little bit during that time, here and there, but for whatever reason lost that drive...family, kids, new career, no regrets...got back into it this summer, kids in college and older...now, it's worse then ever, even when I was kid...think it about to much...and have that constant drive to get out there...upset if I miss a swell...just something about having a good 2 hour sesh...I act different and an overwhelming feeling of goodness afterwards...only really missed one swell this winter...and po'ed when I miss one...Reborn old fart...kinda weird.

 

http://issuu.com/eastern-surf-magazine/docs/esm169/37?e=6936065/2999671

Pretty interesting if you read it. Just click on the article to zoom in.