Surfers and drugs

That's why they call it dope

Sometimes it just makes you feel all back in junior high, getting away with ****. The buzz is enhanced when its a social thing. Example: I went to check the surf Sunday afternoon to see if it was worth going out a second time (it was clean waist high longboardable in the am). I ran into a bro, and had a doobie in my pocket (just in case I ran into a bro). The wind was honking sideshore, from the south. On the way down the boardwalk I was behind a crew of spring breakers who were amped to see the ocean, and were fairly loud and boisterous. They headed to the south.

I saw my bro due east, talking to the lifeguard. I told him I would be right back, I had to go to the car to get matches because he didn't have a lighter and neither did I, but I had some old soggy matches in my beach bag for emergencies. As I walked back up the boardwalk I passed a cop coming towards the beach, looking bored. So when I came back down the boardwalk my bro and I walked north, downwind, and near a condo sheltered from the wind and fired up, but the matches wouldn't work, so I sent him down the beach to bum a lit cig. He comes back with a couple of hotties who live at the condo, and by that time I had it lit somehow. So we puffed out with some friendly girls. After we burned, we walked back towards the lifeguard stand. The cops ( now there were two!) were upwind, and the lifeguard ( who happens to be an old chum) is laughing that the stupid kids way upwind were burning weed while the bored cops were hanging out at the tower, and they got pissed and were now accosting the spring breakers. We told the guard we were burning too, just downwind due to our superior beach savvy. He said we were Einsteins compared to the dumba88es upwind. That is a quote. And we laughed. That's why they call it dope. The kids were told to leave and not to come back. Until they learn the basic laws of the beach.

 

Make that three languages.

 

I hate doing A/C work. I'd rather be inside working on cooking equipment and refrigs. Nobody wants to do that. Restaurants will go without fixing coolers and A/Cs but they gots to cook to earn.

 

Common usage, not the biblical "know".

 

everyone knows that to keep the cold away you need to get your beer jacket on.... or just make sure you carry around your smoking blanket... but meth and heroin on big waves just don't mix

 

"...you have to want to change in order to change along with having to know you need help and having that courage do actually ask for help. Which for a lot of people is the most difficult part, it was for me. I knew I needed help for a while, I just didn’t have the balls to ask anyone. I had to surrender to myself and my addiction first and foremost."

So true.
Thanks, Zombie for taking the time to share your story.

 

Finally figured out my password. You can go through all the step programs 1,6,9,12,15,20,24,29,34,37,1000........Only solution JESUS

 

God created all the plants for humans to use. Isn't that what you believe? Jesus would have toked up. It gives you a more peaceful and loving mindset.
Btw, Jesus wasn't a hooker and he doesn't need a pimp. Best stop the spam.

 

To the guy sitting on the couch drinking a beverage. I surf, I conquered addictions without programs and I follow Jesus. Now why would you consider this spam. I thought spam was something you eat.

 

Because you were banned because you are only here to push religion down people's throats. Then you created a new account and are doing the same thing. I have no addictions, other than exercise. Some may consider religion an addiction. It clouds your vision, distorts logic, and makes you a slave to your own beliefs.

Someone turn my water into wine. Actually, make that a whiskey.

 

not everyone claims AI was a drug addict world champ, but its clear that drugs played a major role to his demise. the Iron's family not releasing the autopsy report kinda leans towards an OD of some sort given his history of battling with drug addiction, and AI stopping in Miami for a night of partying before going home after he left PR cuz he was too sick to compete, well um.

but the fact that such a great surfer succumbed to drugs makes it more important to let the youth know that even the best at anything is still human, and vulnerable to addiction is a lesson worth teaching.

to bring this up and educate in his name in no way tarnishing the achievements he has made. it only makes the cause of awareness much more powerfull.

For F**K'S sake Tom Curren is an outright alcoholic, Tom Carrol has come forth. Flea came forth, Adam Repolgle came forth. S**t man Pete Mel came forth with his ice addiction and he's doing pretty darn well in the surf industry.

Putting people on pedestals and treating there legacy as something super human only hides the true reality of the surf industry and the surfing lifestyle. Lost crew blah blah blah. I have good friends within the surf industry and its not only Lost, but pretty much all the surf brands. Drugs are rampant in the industry.

 

Always a pleasure guy sitting on the couch. Just remember it is not religion.If you need more info just inbox me or call me. Not here to push an agenda or anything. As for exercise ..............

 

To the guy sitting in his van using Jesus as a crutch... I surf. I conquered addictions without programs and without Jesus. I did it with my own willpower... If Jesus helped me quit he also helped get me hooked.

 

double +1 NYNJ

 

If anything, bringing awareness to AI's problems would only inspire those with addictions to strive for greatness and those who are young stars to take heed.

 

another thing that should be said about AI was that being foolish should be taken into consideration. i know bashing the dead isn't exactly courageous….but if you're sick do what the rest of the world does and go to
doctor/pharmacy/bed…partying down at the club when sick w/the flu..well, most of us wouldn't.

 

Still acting like a shady used car salesman for Jesus Wayne? You are only here to push an agenda. You lurk around looking for any opening that will give you an opportunity to push Jesus into a thread. Try talking about surfing for a change instead of using it as an excuse to once again push your agenda.

Start a thread about surfing and leave Jesus out of it. Go ahead, try it. You won't get any flak if you do that.

 

Cheech and Chong building bridges. So happy to hear that.

 

^^^^^^^^^^^

 

Anytime. I’ve been through a lot and rather than keep it bottled in I try and share my experience when the right opportunities present themselves. All in the hopes that it might help another person struggling like I was.

Agreed about the herb. It is all natural growing straight from the earth. I no longer have the luxury of toking up or having a good craft beer anymore. For myself all bets are off once I put a mind and/or mood altering chemical into my system. I know how much I love the feeling of burning, going for a walk down a moonlit beach with a blunt was one of my favorites along with have a nice cold one after a good session. But it would never be enough for me and I always craved more. I could throw the dice and see what would happen, but I’m sure I already know what the results would be for myself, I’d eventually make it back to my drug of choice. I can’t live my life like that anymore.

But what works for me is not for everyone. You have to find what works for you and stick to it. I commend you guys for having the strength to kick your addictions without a program of recovery. I wouldn’t have been able to do it alone. It doesn’t make me any less or anymore of a person and vice versa to everyone else. The 12 step fellowship I’m a part of is a spiritual, not religious program. It speaks a lot about having a higher power than can help guide you in life and recovery. Now I’m by no means a religious person (to each their own, again find what works for you and stick to it) and I’ve always approached things in a scientific manner and that made it difficult for me to find a higher power of my understanding, which for me isn’t correlated directly with any organized religion. When I first started attending meetings grasping the “higher power” BS was really difficult for me. But you can almost take it in a literal sense as all you have to do is “have faith in a power greater than yourself.” If you look at power greater than yourself literally, it could be a room full of other recovering addicts working for another day clean and taking their suggestions. The way I look at it is a room full of people with more clean time/experience is most certainly a power greater than myself. Take it how you interpret it, the ocean, an old bearded dude living in the clouds, or even the damn lamp next to you could be your higher power. The more time I get clean, the better my understanding has gotten.

I’m really digging the spiritual part now because I feel the act of surfing is very spiritual itself. I used to take surfing so seriously and would never enjoy myself out in the water because of the negative mindset I brought with me into the water. I have so much more fun now when I paddle out, not because of my skill level or gear or whatever, but because I have a different more positive perspective. When you really break it down, I’m sure the majority of us on here have a lot of memories of going to the beach as kids and playing around in the water and waves. As we’ve grown older and skills improved catching more waves learning different maneuvers etc, a lot has changed since we were kids on the beach long ago. But one thing still remains the same when you simplify it. When we go out and surf we are still just going out and playing in the waves like we once did as kids. Yeah the risk factors are higher amongst other things, but all that grows as we get older and more experience, but nonetheless still just going out for a good time playing in the surf. I have a much more enjoyable time out in the water now because this is the way I choose to perceive it. Yeah I’ll never be able to do a quarter of the sh!t the pros do, and I still struggle out there sometimes and can barely make it out of a barrel when I pull in, but we’re out there to have fun regardless of what happens, and for me simply riding a wave is what does it for me now.