This is laughable to most, but real

Jerz braaaahhhhh

 

awesome question. Ive had the same issue in the past. I grew up on the east coast surfing since I could swim and have lived in hawaii and california. I found myself at one point not even wanting to surf unless it was perfect. I think the best thing that ever happened to me was moving to a wave starved place. I now live on the gulf coast (took a job) and we get just enough waves to drive you insane. It made me re-evaluate and realize how much surfing has had an impact on my life. And now I am motivated to move back to a surf rich place immediately. So think about taking some time away from surfing (I know the thought of it give me the shivers).

Not only will you be more stoked but you'll come back to it fresh and start progressing again.

 

Try kiteboarding or shaping or photography to give you another perspective.

 

burn out is normal. step back for a bit and try something else.

 

this sounds like a good approach. also does your board suck? also, maybe a surfy trip IS in order.

 

Just try to hold on to your stoke. We all get stale. And as you get older especially, your progression won't be heading in the same direction. For me, I spent every single day of 10 years obsessing over surfing, my style, my abilities, chasing big waves and lucky for me, after that 10 years I had pretty much lived my surfing bucket list. I learned every trick I wanted to at the time. I built up a pretty legit surfing arsenal and then about 3-4 years ago, I just became content. Not in a bad way. I just surfed. I used to spend some days or even weeks, ONLY trying to do one thing on EVERY way i got. Only barrels for a week. No matter how much I wanted to fly off and top turn, I would just try and get covered. Or try an air on every section possible, trying to dial it in better... But a few years ago, I just started to sit back and enjoy the fruits of my labor. But even when I did that, I went from surfing 365 days a year, to maybe not paddling out on that waist high day, because it wasnt that good. Im not saying I wasnt as stoked, but without those passionate goals, there really isnt the same driving force. The same thing pushing you. Almost like a competition with yourself. And ever since I stopped chasing that competition, I have found myself in the water less, and I let my guard down enough to be convinced to move back to the east coast, something that the 24 year old version of me would never have allowed. If my 24 year old self could travel 8 years into the future, he would slap the living sh** out of me and give me a lecture about how much of a fool I am....

So, I got as good as I had set out to be, and then just started having fun... But I will say this, if you don't have goals or have something you are striving for, you will have less passion and stoke... I find myself as stale as I have ever been as far as surfing. I moved back east almost 2 years ago. I feel like there are literally never any waves here. A stoked day for me usually consists of longboarding waist high beach breaks. With the occasional chest high day on a fish... I mean, like 4-5 times all year I feel like there are actually decent waves that allow a few barrels, the occasional air section..

Im with you now. I still paddle out EVERY time there is a ripple, but at the end of the day, I just have this feeling of "man, it was great just to get wet"... But I no longer look back on most sessions and say, wow, I am so stoked I landed that trick, or man, I wish I could relive that barrel....

There is no light at the end of the tunnel. I try and stay in shape and get stoked, but when you are groveling around on a big board in small surf all the time, its hard to stay motivated.... I have probably gained 10 pounds this last year just because the lack of surf....

I can't even remember a session that kicked my ass since ive lived here. I haven't even had waves that really get your blood pumping.

So, please if someone else has the answer, let me know... Don't get me wrong, I love to surf. I have a blast every single time... But back in those days, where I was just consumed by surfing, I felt like it gave back just as much as I put in... I feel like lately its a one way street. I get less than I used to from it. I always make sure to force myself to go no matter what, just so I don't lose my passion....

Damn, typing that made me a little sad inside.

 

There is no answer. Just keep surfing. Go through the motions, because if you dont put as much effort into it now, who knows where live will take and how far from surfing you may become. Dont know your life story, but you dont want to have kids, a wife and career and living in Cleveland having this conversation in 10 years. Always fight hard to keep it in your life, cause having a little stoke and wondering why you dont have more is way better than having no stoke at all.

 

Zach man you gotta get off that island and head north. I know it ain't SoCal, but if you're really only getting 4-5 quality sessions a year, start thinking day trips.

 

I know brother, I know. I have just been working a lot this past year. Bought a house. Every vacation period I get off gets planned for Disney World and stuff like that. I actually took a board down to Amelia Island last week to surf on a business day trip....

Its just so hard for me. When I go up to Charleston, I have the wife and daughter with me. Its tough on my wife to handle my daughter on the beach alone. When I enter the water, my daughter wants to immediately follow. Its just a funky time in my life, where every spare moment seems like it is already accounted for. Thats just life for me right now. I switched my work hours around, so I have most weekends off and go in mid morning a couple times per week. I did this so I will have some surf time. But with the tricky tides down here and stuff, on some days with a little swell, I can't get on it cause the freaking huge 12 hour tide swings that arent timed well for me...

I can't WAIT to go surf folly and the washout. I watch the cams almost daily up there and its ALWAYS better up there. Almost always anyway... Its like an actual, consistent wave with ridable faces and shoulders...

I know Jacksonville has some spots and stuff. I will make some time...

Im actually looking to go on a "family trip" up to OC MD and DE to see my dads new house. I will definitely be able to clock some water and wave time with my pops....

You are right though. Gotta get off this island sometimes. My last trips to JAX and Charleston really had no swell action either.

And I mean 4-5 of real legit days... There are plenty more "fun" ones. But nothing that really screams "SURF ME"

 

Yeah, last couple years, I have thought "There is a cane swell coming (I.E. Sandy), why will I travel when this will be as good as HHI gets"??? I think from now on, I need to think "Hilton Head will be fun, but North Florida or the Folly area will be bigger and better. Just make the sacrifice and chase a little bit.

 

I hear ya man, sometimes life just gets in the way. There was a period in my life, my first couple years out of college, where I was probly getting 3-4 sessions a year tops. I was teaching, consumed w/ the house, not married, but doing the domestic thing, and it's tough dude the time just keeps ticking. I'd look at the cam every day too, even though I had minimal chances of getting wet. The last few years have been great in the sense that it's me and my dog, no serious girlfriend or kids, sh!tty job that I can call out sick from. Just like the tides man, everything ebbs and flows...you'll get back on it more. One thing I realized in my hiatus was that once waves have made their mark on your mind, there's no escaping them.

 

no complaints that quiver so final conclusion you are in dire need of a surf trip. this time of year
the southern hemisphere beckons….like captain ahab to your bank account.

 

Thank you, that's how I see it too but it's nice to have it reaffirmed occassionally.

 

Totally understand that loss of stoke. Some things I do to keep up my enjoyment are:

1. surf regularly with an old timer, it will make you appreciate your abilities and show you that surfing is a life long love

2. surf regularly with a young gun, I surf with a buddy who is only 24 and he's stoked out of his mind. he drags me out on waist high mushy days that I would otherwise turn my nose up at, but I'm always glad I made the paddle out afterwards

3. Sell a couple boards and get a shape you don't have. Try a quad if you haven't, it blew me away and kept me hyped for almost 3 years. So fun. Get a mini simmons, It's my latest ball of yarn and insanely fun.

4. Sell a couple boards or save up and go to Puerto Rico. Jet blue flies there for $200 and you can get a hostel for $25 per night. Even my broke ass budget can save up for that