There's a kneelo I see when I hit a certain break, every time he's out it's chest or above. Saw him out wednesday, he was charging, and got shacked silly. I get psyched every time I see this dude, and it's cool to know there's still kneelos left. So this post is for you Mr. Kneelo, for keeping your art alive. Godspeed and keep charging! Ya know, the way I see it, riding waves has many parallels to martial arts...the commitment, the states of mind one can reach, the physical benefits, etc. The more disciplines alive, the better. That is all.
kneeboarder. don't see too many of them anymore, but it was a fairly popular variant of wave riding in the 70s. i remember asking my dad about it when i started getting interested in all the different ways to ride a wave & he said something along the lines of you can get barreled way deeper & go ridiculously fast, but everything happens faster & when you get worked, you REALLY get worked & it hurts a whole lot more. it's still something i'd like to try one day.
Hahaha good question...he does have legs, but rides a knee board. Personally it seems awkward to me, I've never tried it, but kneeboarding arguably was pretty influential in various ways. Interesting thread on the erBB how knee boards influenced surfboard design in the late 70's, dropknee bodyboarding, etc. These guys were getting so pitted back in the day at heavy sponge waves like Shark Island. I'll look for some pics in a few.
every kneeboarder I have seen is always in the pocket, lots of tubes and knew their way around steep waves
yup...fins are usually placed further forward to compensate for the change in weight distribution & leverage.
they get in pretty crazy places, too. most surfers (including myself) prob. couldn't fit inside this little drainer
sick pic of a pit nj42 its like little days in lbi and ssh and those areas, like waist high drainers can fit a man if properly situated I will be penitent and enter the small temple....
There is an older guy that is always out on Sunset Cliffs on a knee board. He is really good too. He is out when its pushing huge. He is not a huge barrel guy, but he definitely stays in the pocket and gets some nice ones. Anybody that surfs out there on a regular know who I am talking about.
Gracias amigo...I've been meaning to start this thread every time I see the dude, finally got around to it.
yes - in oz they call 'em cripples. their branch of our tree had its sunlight stolen by the spongers...
Are wipeouts similar to wiping out on a kneeboard behind a boat? i.e. anytime you catch a lip it's faceplant city? My knees hurt just looking at that. But I can see where it would be cool, you're not dragging legs and slowing down like on a sponge.
Without kneeboarders we wouldnt have the fish, or super raked out flex fins. One of surfings greatest innovators didnt even surf, he was a kneeboarder. George Greenough.