Crazy day

what does "not eating anything all day" have to do with this?

 

The Point in Dominical Costa Rica. It was a 7'2" brand new Channel Island semi-gun. Lost it duck diving a rogue set, had an old leash on, and bye bye. It was a crazy swim/body surf to shore in macking ground swells. I spent an hour scouring the bay looking for it down on the rocks. All the guys on the bluff told me it probably got sucked out to sea. I saw a speck down below, and it turned out to be my board, resting on two rocks like a table. Only scratches, no dings at all. I decided it was way too much foam for me, rode my 6'8" step up the rest of the trip, and sold it as soon as I got home. I still have a bad habit of going out in large waves with old leashes, and have spent a few times taking the long swim in. Leashtarded.

 

...No........

 

respect the leash. that little string commands respect. its an odd piece of equipment; optional at that...

 

yup, tried paddling through the pier on a windy day this winter and dinged my brand new board on a pylon. had barnacles on it and everything. (1st session). i want to personally invest in suncure haha

 

Bout 10 years ago, had a brand spanking new Plus One. I was surfing Peskys which is a reef break with no beach, the water just slaps up against the cliff side. Took off on like my third wave. It was high tide so it was break all the way to the inside. Popped through the back of a closeout and had that naked feeling. I came up and watched my board slapping against the cliffs as I swam after it. Took of like 6 inches of the nose. FIRST SESSION. My next door neighbor did a great repair, but it looked sh**y as the white was completely different on the nose.... Worst leash fail I have ever had. I mean, I have snapped a bunch, but never resulted in such a heart breaker....

I felt like such a d-bag. My girlfriend, now wife had saved up for the board and dropped like 500 for george to shape it for me. I had my tail between my legs when I came home. She comforted me, although on the inside she probably wanted to slit my throat.

 

Everything bro. It all starts with diet. I'm interested in everything all you guys are eating, not eating, or even just thinking about eating, so use this thread as your own personal diet log from now on.

 

I picked up a used, logg-esque Bunger funboard for my girlfriend, a nice local shape. The thing was sitting in some guys garage gettting f*cked up for a couple years, but outside of the many open dings, it was in great condition. So I adopted it for $80 and put a lot of time into ding repair.

This thing has a couple of sections of white filler larger than your outstretched hand, and one of them is on the rail. I spared no effort or time in the repair of every aspect of the board (all sanding by hand). I gave it to her as a gift and she was very happy with it. Of course, I ended up taking it out on a small day before she ever surfed it...

About 5:30 am, I grabbed the board for its inaugural surf, walked into the living room, and put the nose right into a ceiling fan. DING.

 

perfect breakfast before dawn patrol:
1 egg, scrambled
1/2 cup of coffee
1 glass of water.

 

an old buddy of mine used to be a sponger back in the day and he told me the story on why he will never go in the ocean again,he was boogying an 8ft swell probably 70s or 80s at casino pier seaside nj,and he got worked and lost his sponge and got washed through the pier and had to hold on to the pilings getting sliced by the barnecles for a good 10 minutes cus there wasn't a lull,lol,and he said hed climb down the piling as each wave beat the crap out of him,hes in his late 50s and still has a bunch of gnarly scars across his belly.i got a good laugh from that

eating is very important with surfing.u need a lot of energy

 

See if I surf in the morning, I usually wait to eat until I'm done. I don't want any digestion issues going on out there ya know? And I always avoid coffee before I surf or golf. I hate having the jitters. I like to be calm out there... Coffee just gets my nerves going.

Ohh, and never eat clementines before a surf. My wife's cousin had a whole crate of fresh organic seedless clementines. I ate about 4 of them before a session. My wife and her cousin were chillin on the beach. They saw my take a wave in, drop my board about 10 yards from where they were and proceed to run across the beach to the lifeguard tower... Houston, we have a problem... Never ate pre-surf citrus again. Thank god there weren't drunk bums sleeping in the stalls of the OB lifeguard tower or they would have had ground zero in there. I guess this story would be more pertinent in Clemson Surfs thread today.

 

yep I had to learn the hard way, 2x. its fine in 2-3 foot surf, anything overhead and I am checking string and leash for integrity

 

heard a similar story about a guy duecing under the AC boardwalk, bums chased him out waving a stick saying DONT SHAT IN MY HOUSE!!!!!

 

i had a crazy day myself, woke up this morning and didn't eat breakfast!!!! Did you know thats the most important meal of the day?!! Theres a decent wave out there but after hearing this horror story I decided I better not surf today.

 

4:20 dawn patrol
Nacho flavored combos
Wash it down with a yoohoo

Something from the sea when I'm done, grouper sandwich.

 

Once, after a epic sesh in VB, I was picking up the wife from the maternity hospital after giving birth to our son. I took them home and she was getting the infant bundled up as I unstrapped my board. I leaned down and grabbed li'l Cheech Jr. when a gust of wind slung my ride off the car. With Ninja reflexes, I toss the little feller on the driveway right under my other baby. NO DINGS. NO SCRATCHES on my board anyway.

 

i got a 5,8 rusty rusty last summer my first day on the water with it i was ridding it in on my belly to get out and i scrape something on the bottom that was sticking up about 1 foot. i got 3 semi deep holes on the bottom of my new board i was livid, something stupid happens every time i get a new board. once i came home and someone moved my new board and jacked up the nose, another time 1 week into my new fish i poped the fin box on 7 foot waves at low-mid tide here with 19knt offshore dredging waves. mid tide is about 2 feet when firing hard , so the huge blown up wave i was surfing smashed it into the sand.