Chicama, Peru for me. Been to Pavones. Matapalo is better. http://surfeuropemag.com/features/the-worlds-7-longest-surf-rides.html
Namibia (with some slight editing on my part) Season/Swell: It’s a southern hemi deal so the season runs May to September, but subject to a limited swell window Skeleton Bay might only turn on a couple times a year, needing a big long-period groundswell from the Roaring Forties to wrap in at just the right angle. How to get there: Your best bet is to get in touch with a guide with lots of guns and friends with guns to drive you in. What you’ll need: A good wetsuit, lots of boards and, err, plenty of drinking water, guns, body armor, bribery money, an eyepatch so the pirates confuse you for brethren, a plethora of vaccinations, and ammo. Watch out for: Strong rips, pirates, and yes super shallow sandbanks! Also: Locals have implemented a no ‘4×4 back to the peak’ policy so make sure you’re cardio is up to scratch for the walk-back. Also make sure your cardio is up to scratch when you're running for your life. Read more at https://www.osac.gov/pages/ContentReportDetails.aspx?cid=14060 And remember folks, if the locals don't get ya, the lions will.
Pavones was lots of fun last time I was down there - overhead and peeling forever. And the locals are cool. Matapalo, on the other side of the bay, I heard is loaded with Tiger sharks. That may be a story to keep the Gringos on the Pavones side.
Actually, 2 weeks ago nailed my first. White water, but whatever. Today is june 3....so that would have made it....may 20 something? It was fun, broke, stayed on for about 2 seconds, broke apart. I could have picked a better day and a better spot. Win some lose some I suppose. Oh, and I did freeze my ass off. I also realized smoking is bad mmkay, went back on the vape. Also started back at the gym hard. Apparently cardio is in fact a major aspect of it (thanks for the heads up emass). There's some clean stuff coming this week, first for me if it goes per the forecast. I'll snag some pictures of my ill skills hahaha. I haven't gotten any odd looks for the softtop yet (at least not to my face). Reminds me, anyone planning on hitting NH for thurs fri sat? Maybe meet a few of you if you're up there. Look for the kook on the white softtop and ratty old wetsuit. [video=youtube;PpxDuNFBVj8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PpxDuNFBVj8[/video]
Thanks Holmes... Actually super psyched. The wife booked this a few months ago and I figured it would be flat. But it's been firing for the last week and building toward the end of this week.
I've camped at Matapalo before and after the landslide. Was way scarier before the beach extended out 20 yards and up 15 feet. It is indeed sharky. saw a guy get bit paddling out. But the doofus stuck his hand in a mass of anchovies that were jumping out of the water, saying something like "Look, I can make a pizzaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhh!" before getting chomped several times.
u need a permit just to go to the beach in Namibia.i don't think youll need guns,people don't really live there,atleast near the water.its a desolute wasteland of desert and carcasses of sea mammels.pirates are in somolia,very very very far away.thats like saying watch out for ms13 gangbangers in cali when u visit nj.I never been there but been following it since the lost movie with cory and ian scoring skeleton.from most responses iv heard they say the wave is really shytty,that unless your Kelly slater or cory lopez u wont even make the drop,let alone get barreled.its basically a never ending closeout,which doesn't make any sense lol.id try my luck with a spot like desert point or gragajen before I venture to afrika
I surfed pavones and matapalo and both are great. Pavones is definitely a better wave than any of the spots at Cabo Matapalo. Since im a goofy I choose Pavones! I think honorable mention should go to another costa rican gem, boca barranca. I got that place a few feet overhead and its a great spot to practice long drawn out cutbacks.
The longest ride on the most perfect wave I've ridden was at Boca. there's a left break between there and Tevivas called Guacalillio. A jump off a cliff to get out left hander
Alright Luigi, I hear ya. Tobacco is a waste of time. I can't really understand the vape thing either. You're talking e-cigs right? I think you are. If you're talking a vaporizer that heats up the active ingredients of plants but doesn't burn the fibrous plant parts... well, I can get behind that. As far as fitness goes. Yes, get on it. Strength is good, cardio is right up there too. I've been doing Insanity for nearly a month and a half and it's great and has helped my surfing fitness and strength immensely. Someone told me that Shaun T is gay. I don't really care but there's this exercise called in & outs where you're in a plank position then you bring you feet in under you (like a popup) then push them back out again. I have a hard time taking ol' Shaun T seriously now when he's screaming IN.... OUT..... My only complaint is it doesn't really hit any upper body so I've been supplementing with pull-ups. I'd recommend it over bench pressing but that's no way to get any friends on this forum. The only person that cares what you ride is our local apex predator and his abused wife.