I used to think that, too...until I learned that just heating the pad with a hair dryer softens the glue enough to get it off without tearing (you can save a lot of money re-using your traction). I use 3M spray adhesive to stick it back on...should be able to get it at any kmart or whatever and one can lasts a lifetime.
A Sup did the same to me two years ago, I was paddling back out, I yell "see me?" he nods then proceeds to spaz out and head right for me. Loses balance, and kicks this canoe Right at me. I try and duck dive, feel the thing hit me in head and shoulder. Come up, hes apologetic, I don't handle confrontation well so I swallowed the pain and re grouped. The tail looked like someone sawed a slice of it.Told him the shop I'd drop it to and my name. He said "I will totally correct this." 90$ patch job, 2nd time on new mush shorty, i paid the bill. Shiite happens. Bummer bro, you have to get that dwart fixed if the integrity of the glass is compromised. People are the worst.
Did it even go thru the stringer??? In the pics- it didn't look like it... If the stinger is ok- then it's going to make the repair much simpler And oh ya - who's fault is it?
Dude, there was no drop in...i was turning to the side to get out of the way and he clearly couldn't control his board or else was trying to hit me but i'd like to believe that wasn't the case
Talked to a shaper today and sent him pics, he said he can fix it however: 1) it might be a little heavier 2) no guarantee of copying the under side concave but he will try 3) he can definitely fix the stringer and it will be stronger than before he also told me he would buy the board off of me for a store credit to shape me a new board. estimated $150-$200 for the fix, but no estimate on the store credit until he could see the board in person.
dude it doesn't look so bad.... I would take a closer look at the stringer on top- if it really hit the stringer - its hard to see with the traction pad.
Agreed...also surprised by the quote...I do all my own work and don't go to the shop. Is the quoted amount the going rate for a fill and glass?
Yea I agree that's a lot of money for a repair... It sounds like he is making it sound harder then it is. Plus- like I have been saying- if the stringer is not broken- don't fix it- that's where the extra time, money, weights and also messing with the bottom contour is going to come into play. Sand that area- fill it with qcell and fiberglass it- keeping it a clean cut without cutting all the foam out.. Ect. Seriously. Back in the day I use to do ding repair for the local shop. First you gotta carefully peel off that traction pad to see the stringer on top. Even if it's just nicked about a 1/4- don't mess with it. It's not worth the extra weight/time. Do a search on here about taking off your traction pad... It's not fun...
I don't do ding repair for other people so not sure what the going rate is. If I were to do it I would hit the cut all the way around about 10 inches sanding almost to the foam at the actual cut and feathering out. Remove any damaged glass and foam. Fill with Qcell microballoon mix. I'd force the qcell mix into the cut by squeezing it out of a zip lock bag with a corner cut off or using a plastic syringe. Sand that all flat. Glass the bottom first wrapping the rail with a single layer of 4oz. Then glass the deck with two layers of 4oz with one piece an inch or two bigger all the way around than the first also wrapping the rail. Hot coat. Sand. Coat with acrylic sealer. Done. If it were my personal board I'd probably lightly sand the whole board with 320 and lay down a couple fresh coats of acrylic so everything looks fresh again. Given the work to do it right I'd say $100 is fair.
