Living the Life of a Surfer

I don't have to make that decision, fortunately.

But then again I didn't surf for many years, as some of y'all have, so the answer, to me, is get the addiction to manageable levels, somehow some way. And enjoy the journey.

And forget the 'b' word: balance is a myth created by Madison Avenue to make one feel inadequate so one purchases more useless crap or stays on the taxpaying treadmill longer working harder for less or takes more abuse just to attempt to attain the mythical 'balance.'

It's a fallacy; balance doesn't exist in much of anything, least of all an addiction like surfing.

Blasters....surprisingly insightful OP...gitcarter may fall over when he reads it.

 

I feel ya, Mr Blaster. SC has been way too flat for far too long.

 

Funny you should ask. I was just thinking of how I could convince my wife to buy a Bed n Breakfast on New Smryna and live in it and rent the other rooms out to get it started. Surf every day, then take care of business. Semi-retired at an early age. Gotta figure out how to make that happen. The one I have in mind has it's own private living quarters the size of a small house. I could be happy there. Question is, could she lol

 

First of all, I think we all agree that allowing Madison Avenue to define anything is folly, especially for a surfer. But in reality, surfing does require balance and this among other physical realities provides great metaphors that can be applied to other areas of life. The stoke and passion for surfing can energize other pursuits in life. The stoke also carries over in the capacity to mellow & chill, knowing that riding waves in any sesh is one of the most enjoyable thinngs in life... at least to us.
.. and that is why we each have some level of sacrifice & commitment.

 

i sacrifice a lot to be able to surf more. Not fixing up my home, not buying super nice things, and break plans with friends and family. But i am going to Nicaragua in 2 weeks. Its an addiction

 

To yankee's point, to "manage" things requires different sacrifices. Some, the long treks hunting swell. In my case, it's getting up at 4am when the rest of my being is saying "no" to be at the break at first light to work in a sesh so that "responsiblilties" are dealt with on time. I'm all in, willing to sacrifice, but it would not be right to impose sacrifice/hardship on anyone else for my stoke, thus constraints on what I can sacrifice.

Hopefully this gets managed properly.

@blasters: good thought provoking inquiry.

 

#FirstWorldProblems

We're probably neighbors so I won't give you the business too hard. I can't quite figure out if this is a "I'm sad because I'm wave poor" or a "I'm sad because I'm dollar poor" post. I mean you've got access to the internet (you're not at the library are you?) and you own a surfboard so you're doing better than a huge portion of the world.

My gut is telling me this is a wave poor comment though. Watch that movie Splinters on NetFlix that someone was talking about. Total opposite situation. Those guys can't find two pennies to rub together but they have waves for days. I guarantee they'd trade AC, internet and cooked food for a summer of flatness.

 

I understand your point sir,
But I try to think a little different- there is so much to do in the summer and the water is always crowded- so I just let those ol summer pros have the small knee to waist hi swells... And await the time when I put the rubber back on. It is a bummer that when the waters warm- the waves are small.. So here is my sacrifice for good waves- I will give all those old summer pros the warm water waves... Then go the great length of surfing the rest of the year in the cold... Lol

Your friend,
Mr.Belmar

 

I will pay someone $1,000,000 for a single overhead, clean, peeling wave. Any takers? I feel ya Blasters this flat spell is making me crazy then we have a Shaka Doo Doo come on here and really piss me off. Fingers crossed for some hurricane swells this summer and fall.

 

I believe that there is certainly a balancing act and trade-offs involved if one has a wife to keep happy and a family to support. Sort of hate to say it, because I've enjoyed surfing so such, and my mere 22 months of surfing has benefited my outlook and disposition; but surfing is for the most part a selfish pursuit. If you're a family of surfers, then perhaps you're better able share the experience.

Due to home and family responsibilities, weekends are generally not a good time for surfing. Usually I have to get my sessions in during the week before or after work, and it's often a scramble when I do - especially during the winter. Fortunately I work near the beach. But my sessions are about an hour to 90 minutes at most. I could never spend 3-4plus hours out surfing like some guys are able to do.

I was saving up for a long board. Thought I'd have one before now. But life happens, cars break down, house needs repairs, kids have college expenses. So I continue to mostly ride the old clunker beginner board that I started on. I have two other, smaller boards, but bigger, steeper surf than what we've been experiencing here is needed for those.

But I got my younger son to go out with me yesterday afternoon. Brought two boards. Surf-wise, conditions were poor, choppy and disorganized. But he got out there paddled around a bit and got used to being out on the rougher water. I managed to catch one ride, but I was out there for my son. He still liked it wants to go out again when it's not so choppy.

When you share your interest with someone else, particularly your child or wife, and they enjoy it too, it's a good thing. It's not selfish when you share something that has given you so much enjoyment, and that sharing, I think is an important part of the surfing life. I love watching those vids of the dads out surfing with their kids, as well as the Wounded Warriors surfing events. I want to get involved in that program when it again comes to our area..

 

I'm 32, still in school, broke as can be (paycheck runs out before the next arrives), bank constantly overdrawn, car payment always late, cant keep a girlfriend...but i get to surf generally when i want, and i live in maui.

So I wouldnt say i sacrificed but i am not successful by modern standards thats for sure.

 

Hey man success is relative dude. If you are happy that is all that matters. Plus you live in Maui man!

 

Word mang! Thanks for the support! Haha.

And the success was maily just based on the standards of 'merica. You know money and shiny things....hell i dont even have cable. But thats by choice.

Im full on stoked with my life. The only thing that could make it better would be if it was bankrolled by some hottie cougar or something of that nature, cause i am tired of working. Its just not for me.

 

Attach a day spa and/or riding stables and I'll bet you can finagle a deal.

 

Carter, what happened to the most classic avatar on SI....?!?

 

Man i hear ya, I'm in school and working and doing the family thing and have to fight to surf.... All I want is some guilt free surfing. Don't get the wrong impression that my wife is hounding me, it's the little kids, they're hard to say no to. You're doing the right thing and there is a light at the end of the tunnel.

Have you guys ever heard the story about the fisherman that lived on the island and fished all morning, sold what he needed to, ate the rest and lived his life on the beach? One day a businessman came down to the man's island and told him he needed to fish all day so he could buy a big boat and hire some deckhands to help him fish so that one day he could buy a bigger boat. He'd be able to supply the local markets and restaurants and soon enough he could hire some more guys and buy more boats. With all the extra money he could start packaging his fish and selling it to far away lands. Then he could buy the packaging plant and package all kinds of things for other people until he was ready to retire. Finally, one day, he could retire and spend the rest of his life sitting on the beach fishing.

One more thing. Read Dave Ramsey's Total Money Makeover. He's gonna tell you to sell your car though.

 

I work nights 8pm-4am in order to surf whenever I want. It really takes a hit on my social life...also having set off days Wednesday and Thursday.

 

Crazy you should ask. I was just considering how I could persuade my spouse to buy a Bed n Morning meal on New Smryna and reside in it and lease the other areas out to get it began. Browse every day, then deal with company. Semi-retired at an beginning age. Have to determine how to reach that goal. The one I have in thoughts has it's own personal residing areas the dimension a little home. I could be satisfied there. Query is,

 

I am happy because I'm poor. I made alot of money once, living in southern RI, working 50 hours a week. Though I never had a problem getting to surf before or after work, I felt rich but my work lifestyle was taking its toll on me. I hated what I was doing and jumped at an opportunity to move out west.

After giving away all my stuff, being landlocked for a year and a half and making 60% less than I did in Rhode Island, I realized being rich has nothing to do with money, so I packed my bag bought a van, looked at moving to california, washington, oregon and found myself broken down in tulsa oklahoma 2 days before christmas.

I returned back to the only place that made me feel rich without the need for money or even waves, on January 6th of this year. I landed a job with a company that I have had my eye on since 2007, no I dont make much money, but I enable people to enjoy their natural surroundings. Just going for a swim or skate is good enough for me, and when its flat I remind myself how lucky I am to be able to smell salt water while walking in the woods.

Would I rather be surfing, hell yeah, but my god is it nice to get things finished/travel and see different **** without missing waves.