Living the Life of a Surfer

That's all you can do sometimes man. The new angle mine plays, is that she knows I surf here on days that I probably would have checked and wouldn't have bothered in the past, and she will look at it and be like, really? What exactly is that you are going to surf out there? Im like, it's just in between sets, they are out there. she replies: yeah, sure. She did say that the first wave I got the other day was the smallest wave she had ever seen anyone ride. Oh well. At least I could say, I told you I could surf that.

Its always something. Just gotta stay one step ahead and keep fighting the good fight.

 

im in my mid 30's and not successful by modern standards, either. Id kill to live in Maui! That's what makes you more successful than other people who surf.

 

Yo, I got you, dawg.

Yo, meet me in the Burger King parking lot tomorrow morning at 7:00 am. Come alone. If I see you with anyone else in your car, I'm outta there.

Make sure you have all bills, I don't want any coins. I've got that fire, yo. Those other naggers down the block got garbage overhead waves. My stuff is right.

If you like it, I'll cut you a break if you buy two overhead waves the next time. I'll even go two-for-one. Yo, two for one. Try and find them deals elsewhere in the summer.

Hey Zues(walking on water) you have a great attitude aboot summer. You're alright, my man.

 

Listen, LeetyMike, don't be fooled.

All of those dudes claiming success and riches aren't happy. They are trying to make themselves and the world think they are, but they aren't.

Look how crazy the world's celebrities are. Material goods don't bring no happiness. It can buy a lot of crack, but it doesn't necessarily bring happiness.

 

Hey, I resemble that remark!

Nah.

Grew up po' - - and learned one thing from that. When I'm poor (talking financially here) I learned pretty quickly that other people run me, other people control me. So, that's what I couldn't abide.

The money is just the means to an end. It's figuring out how this shiiitteerreeee works. It's a scorecard.

I've been flat broke for extended periods of time. I've been rolling in coin. I'll likely be broke again someday. I don't judge people based on $$ - - we all make our choices in Life.

I just know that I don't want to be poor because it simply means less control over my own choices and options in Life.

 

Super Fish, have you recovered from breaking-up with your gal pal yet?

Man, don't let it bother you, man. Human relationships aren't all they are cracked-up to be. Life ain't no Hollywood picture show. Ya know what it is that I be sayin' ?

God, I'm so nice to you, and you stabbed me in the back. We were best friends, and then I get BANNED and you talk behind my back.

Oh well, as I said, human relationships aren't all they are cracked-up to be.

Yo, when you bust some cats with stash, take a little out for me will you. Thanks, dude.

Hey, did somebody say, "crack?"

I still love you, Super Fish.

 

You resemble what remark?

Listen, if youse were referring to anything I said, let me emphatically say that I was not trying to make you resemble anything. I really wasn't

I'm trying not to resemble people anymore. I'm trying to put my negativity days in the past. Though, my whole day and professional life is now comprised of negativity. Sad, sad stories.

....................................

Listen, once anyone has money, they get used to it, and then will find other things, besides money problems, to give them the business.

There is no green grass on any side of any fence.

I've looked, and it just isn't there.

The only things that can help a person in life are dogs, pizza, waves, weed, meth-fueled vajayjay, and a good coloring book(or even one with words, if you are so inclined.)

I haven't been happy in years. But I haven't been sad either. I'm just here, that's all.

Kids, never get old. Don't let the police, your parents or Oprah Winfrey crush your spirit. Keep the fire alive inside, just be smart aboot it. Always do something every day (or week) that excites you.

 

A surfer is a surfer is a surfer. Kelly Slater is a surfer. And the kid that just stood up on a soft top for the first time at surf camp, is now "a surfer". It is what it is.

It's like anything. I used to snowboard a lot when I lived in the Mid Atlantic. I would go maybe once a year on the west coast. I am still decent at it, and I would consider myself a "snowboarder"... I mean, if someone I dont know says, "Are you a snowboarder?". I would reply: "Yes, I am. I don't get out nearly as much as I would like though".... I am sure there are hard core snowboarders saying the same thing about people like me... Ohh that guy, he thinks he is a snowboarder... Where was he last winter? Ohh, that guy lives at the beach all year and only comes up to the mountains once a year, and he thinks he is a "snowboarder"... haha....

Its whatever.

If someone asks anyone on here if they are a surfer, they would all say, yes. They wouldn't say, well, ya know, I am not a professional, I don't get paid to surf, but I surf every swell all winter, so yeah, I guess I am a surfer...

You are or you are not. You can be a beginner. You can be a pro. But once you have done it, you can claim it forever as far as I am concerned.

 

Cause otherwise, this is that whole, empty: "Is surfing a sport? Is it a recreation? Or is it... A WAY OF LIFE"... I mean, living by the beach is a way of life... surfing is an activity... period. You can let surfing define you, or try to, as I have before. It doesn't mean or amount sh**.

 

Kelly Slater is NOT a surfer.

He's a fictional character created to increase Quiksilver sales in the once-untapped east coast market.

How could someone from Florida be so perfect?

 

Everything in Florida is perfect. Look it up.

 

Dear michaeljr

you are a boston doosher. boston doosher. are you a terrier or a crimson? how many miles does your prius have on it? how many times did you vote for deval last election day? how many friends did you support in the gay pride festival? how many peach blunt wraps did you smoke in your wanna-be a$$ pops' A4 in Brookline?

 

Yeah, no doubt. I will say there are guys out there, like Jamie Obrien, that are pro surfers, that are out there, on video, looking at the lineup and saying "look at all the kooks out" and acting like they are king sh** and that they are more of a "surfer" than everyone else, cause he has Red Bull following him around with a camera and his white Daddy bought a house at Pipeline. Jamie Obrien, to me, is no more of a surfer than a 10 year old who just learned with his dad this past summer.

And surfing is a part of beach life to me and you, but not to everyone, just like every waterman isn't a surfer and every surfer is not a waterman....

There are lots of people on here that feel entitled, because they live close to the surf. Or they feel entitled because they surf more in the winter than the next guy. I am just saying, all that is in our own minds really. I'm not going to vibe some guy from Bluffton or Okatie because they are out surfing. Dont matter where you live. Dont matter when you grew up. If you are out in the ocean, standing up on a board, you are a surfer. And when we are all out there, none of the labels matter.

#saltlife

 

HAHA Good one dude! Florida really is f*cked up, but I love it here, it's not all bad, lots of good too, but plenty of random sh*t going down, but I guess that makes it entertaining, cause if nothing crazy ever happened, how boring would things be?

As for this assimilation / body snatching thing, pretty sure that's not it... I may be wrong, but doubt it. What's going on is I have a split personality and my other me decided to F with my regular me. It's a game "we" play.

 

Yeah, and Blaster, the cool thing is you'll feel right at home surfing or hanging by the pier, highly recommended! But seriously, if you haven't been, you'll really enjoy it. I could point you in the right direction if you wanted to hit the better spots.

 

Great post, one of your finest! Sorry to hear about your hardship, sounds like you got a better situation for yourself now, but i'm sure it was bitter sweet, getting to go surfing any day you want is nice, not having a home, not so much. Can't imagine sleeping in my vehicle, but surfing great waves every day sure would soothe the "pain" a little.

 

I left my coloring book on a LAN airplane in a sleep deprived Valium daze. Along with some nice headphones. Wish I could get the coloring book back though. There were definitely drawings that were 'outside the lines'. It was one of the last things my dead Irish Grandmother gave to me.

Does that make me a surfer?

 

You better have the dank A$$ waves bro! No first ones free to get me hooked? What kind of wave pusher are ya man